tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-39611475884506095192024-02-08T03:32:54.584+01:00Lorenzo CorinoIl blog di Lorenzo CorinoAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.comBlogger62125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-63092431609721298592016-11-01T16:57:00.003+01:002016-11-01T17:04:31.145+01:00From soil to wine - an Abstract for RAW WINE NY 2016 <div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Soil is a
complex living organism, not well known and dynamic. We are all subordinated to
it, that means that we depend on a thin layer of the Earth and on the water
that rains on it..<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The grape
and then the wine are both strictly dominated by the soil, responsible of the originality
and the great value of the wine (we clearly refer to quality wine that is not a
price-based commodity).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The ability
to combine suitable soil with most appropriate grape variety is crucial and
requires expertise and experience. The environments for achieving remarkable
and durable wine are the real proof of its feasibility; if the appropriate conditions in the soil are
met, the result will be like in a library, where you can choose from a series
of historical vintages: while certainly some will be lacking, as a whole a
defined period is like an “orchestra” playing a symphony with infinite nuances.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Soil
texture, mineral properties and organic matter are the main factors affecting
the possibility to be able to achieve great quality in wine; the biological soil quality (BSQ) evaluation
is an important criteria that also speaks about its sustainability.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">If
climatic, environmental and varietal factors are taken into consideration, the
confrontation with the vine pathogens is a lot simpler and manageable.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Grape
ripeness is a real critical factor to achieve: we have variability in the
vineyard, between plants and even in the bunch. When speaking about ripeness we
must also include stem and leaves. The best conditions for harvest include
temperature fluctuations and the presence of “autumn-like” season.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Modern
management is often more a requirement than a rational choice causing early
decline of the vineplants, therefore responsible of shorter duration of the
vineyard that can be exhausted in 20-25 years. Thus we should rethink about the
plant’s wellbeing and its duration, with advantages in wine quality, in beauty,
culture and heritage.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Beauty and
handcraft are fundamental and economic values in wine production. The true wine
artisan is a custodian of cultural values, promoter of the beauty of landscapes
and harmony of wellbeing, a creator of synergies with other economic sectors
to pursue all-around value, not just in wine; and to establish a story of wine excellence.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The artisan
wine producer is the manager of his project, full of complexities, where he
must have the total mastery of his grape production. This does not mean however
his total personal involvement in all vine and wine activities.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Historically,
great and durable wines have been mainly obtained from prepared and educated
people, and the future of organic wines as well is closely related to culture
and the need of recovering resources. The path of artisan ‘natural wine’ is a strong, costly and risky decision and
commitment to it must be conducted with great honesty and professionalism . <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We must be
certain that healthy food and wine remain the best friends of our health.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-37239627931918957222016-10-23T15:49:00.001+02:002016-10-23T15:54:43.407+02:00自然なワインの規定づくりは必要か?<div class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ワインに関する規定ははるか昔からあり(プリニウスやコルメッラの著作など)多くの歴史的文章にその記述が見られる。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">過去3世紀様々な基準が徐々に制定され定期的に改正されてきた。前世紀において世界のいたるところでワインとぶどう、ワインづくりに関すること細かな法律が制定されてきた。このために(大学や研究所、個人企業など)高等研究機関が様々な地域に設立され生産者やワイン業界に多大な貢献をもたらしてきた。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">多くの研究成果を整理するための強固な組織づくりや、外部との比較のため国や地方自治体の関与が必要となり世界的に信頼さる国際機関</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">O.I.V</span><span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">が生まれるに至った。ここまでの道のりはすでに終わった研究でも今後行われる研究の信頼性と重要性を担保するにあたってもとても重要である。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ワインに関する法律は微細なところまで定められており自然なワインの規定について語る際にも完全に無視することができるものではない。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">自然なワインの世界に入るにはそれに相応しい専門性を有しこの世界での長く豊富な経験を有する人々からの有益な協力が必要だ。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">人類はその歴史の中で絶えずぶどうを栽培しワインはいつも人と共にあり、事実、</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">“</span><span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">自然な</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">”</span><span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ワインは農業の歴史と共にあった。これはなにもワインがいつも美味しいものであったということではなく、大多数のそれには熟成に向かないことも含めて多くの欠陥があった。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">”</span><span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">農民のワイン</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">“</span><span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">と言われる類のものは欠点ばかりで良いところは殆どなく、上手にワインを作れるのはごく僅かな生産者だけだった。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">その後</span><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: ZH-TW; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS"; mso-fareast-language: ZH-TW;">技術的</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">—</span><span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">科学的な知識によってワインの品質が飛躍的に向上したものの、残念なことにその知識とテクニックが濫用され、輝かしいワインの歴史には似つかわしくない</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">”</span><span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">造られた</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">”</span><span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ワインを濫造する輩も出てきてしまった。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ワインづくりに関するどんな規定であってもまずは</span><span lang="JA" style="color: #ff5f5d; font-size: 12.0pt;">「</span><span lang="JA" style="color: #ff2c21; font-size: 12.0pt;">どこでどうやってぶどうが栽培されるのか」</span><span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">から始まらなければならない。そして細かな栽培方法や最も重要な点である収穫時期の決定も含めて詳細に検討がなされなければならない。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">さらに重要な点はぶどうはワインを作りその品質に全責任を負う生産者の畑で作られたものだけが使われるべきで買いぶどうなど論外という事だ。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div align="center" class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt; text-align: center;">
<span lang="DE" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span lang="DE" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9BzJJs8P1ijQlTYKdug3hSLF0RVLNQNk1BGQ77EpvPLabKrBYhUUjAXdGSRLrl-esBeBhvEL8B8lkepJE-cRbf4Z7E1b1asMIKqaHM-HomUUH_w2oaF1Va95psYBl4iC-mhvd2oLubgs/s1600/Germoglio.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9BzJJs8P1ijQlTYKdug3hSLF0RVLNQNk1BGQ77EpvPLabKrBYhUUjAXdGSRLrl-esBeBhvEL8B8lkepJE-cRbf4Z7E1b1asMIKqaHM-HomUUH_w2oaF1Va95psYBl4iC-mhvd2oLubgs/s640/Germoglio.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
<span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div align="center" class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt; text-align: center;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">芽吹き:毎年の希望のとき</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">最近の</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">“</span><span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">自然な</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">”</span><span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ワインは徐々にこの定義から離れつつあり、科学的裏付けがほとんどないに等しいにもかかわらず普通の言葉となり、より分かりやすく市場でも受け入れやすい言葉で語られるようになった。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">今日私たちの暮らす世界は常にニュースを求め、本質を追求することも真実を探ろうともしない世界だ。このような状況下では、短期的には人気を博すだろうが中期的にみると害をなすこととなる。自然なワインの世界の将来に必要なのは確固たる基盤と生産者の誠意だ。今こそすべての利害関係を超えて、特にワイン流通に関しては、少数の(自分たちが属する生産者グループだけの)ことを考えるのではなく自然なワインの大きな流れ全体を止めぬように話し合う時なのだ。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">例えば、重要かつ急を要する案件として揮発酸含有量の基準改定が挙げられる。現在は定められている低すぎるほどの揮発酸含有量は時に多量に添加され表記されないことすらある有害な亜硫酸の使用が前提で決められている。今日自然なワインの多くは世界中のワイン法の揮発酸基準量を上回っており不法な状態だ。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">これは基準改定において重要な一歩でありそのための努力が必要なのだが、ワイン全体のバランスの範囲内であれば揮発酸量はワイン自体の欠点とはならないことを科学的に証明する事が必要とされる。さらにこのテーマは自然なワインを作るのは決して簡単なことではなく、それが可能な品種を選定し、それができる条件、環境下でのみ出来るということの証左となろう。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="a" style="margin-right: 43.1pt;">
<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">これらと、またその他の理由から個人的イニシアチブで提案されるような即興的なものではなく確固たる科学的裏付けのある、信頼出来る機関が提言する自然なワインに関する規定と基準作りが喫緊の課題だと考えるのである。</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="JA" style="font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">ロレンツォ コリーノ</span><span lang="JA" style="font-family: "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-18604070388974991952016-06-21T15:18:00.001+02:002016-06-21T15:25:23.053+02:00Eine Definition von Naturwein<br />
<br />
<header class="entry-header" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; line-height: 40.625px;"><div style="box-sizing: border-box; font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.2; margin: 0px 0px 20px;">
<span style="line-height: 40.625px;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Der Begriff “Naturwein” ist eine häufig verwendete Terminologie, die sich<br />auf keine Kategorie bezieht die durch Gesetzgebungen identifiziert werden kann, ich glaube, es lohnt sich, eine mögliche Definition in 6 Punkte zu erarbeiten.</span></span></div>
<ol style="box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px 0px 30px 40px; padding: 0px;">
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; list-style-type: decimal;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Das geeignete Land, um diese Weine produzieren zu können, sollte eine klare Umweltvariabilität enthalten. Einschließlich der geeigneten Bedingungen spezifisch für den Weinanbau.</span></li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; list-style-type: decimal;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Der für den Weinberg verwendete Boden muss den Anforderungen der pflanzlichen und tierischen Artenvielfalt gerecht werden, einschließlich der zu enthaltenden Mikroorganismen.</span></li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; list-style-type: decimal;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Die angebauten Sorten sollen basierend auf den Kriterien der Kultur der Gegend, Geschichte und der lokalen Tradition sein.</span></li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; list-style-type: decimal;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Die Anbaupraktiken müssen die Grundsätze der ökologischen Landwirtschaft * untermauern (EU-Recht für Bio ist nicht ausreichend).</span></li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; list-style-type: decimal;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Die Trauben müssen im Keller natürlich verarbeitet werden, bis zur Weinproduktion: Produzenten müssen absolut jede Bearbeitung vermeiden, Additionen, Subtraktionen oder irgendetwas anderes, das den natürlichen Prozess der Gewinnung kontert und die Reifung der Weine beeinflusst. Offensichtlich gilt es daher SO2 auch aufzulisten.</span></li>
<li style="box-sizing: border-box; list-style-type: decimal;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Das Unternehmen muss eine übersichtliche Handwerkergroße beibehalten die es dem Winzer ermöglichen, persönlich den einzelnen Stufen der Produktion zu folgen. Voraussichtlich sollte der Schwellenwert bei weniger als 50.000 Flaschen festgelegt werden.</span></li>
</ol>
</header><br />
<div class="entry-content" itemprop="text" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; line-height: 40.625px;">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG9xU8M_Z51rsMgnZEURkiV6EbYPCG0KvF8MwX6Zp9kfx_KhrFcPC8cw8-XrTbTR47h7kX-sz7zqFcpqIIaudxQUyujKtdkFZYo2nvDtSyFJjfD8BtERHVAckJkvRTyI8hgrNXwv3SxdU/s1600/Lorenzo+Corino+Artisan.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG9xU8M_Z51rsMgnZEURkiV6EbYPCG0KvF8MwX6Zp9kfx_KhrFcPC8cw8-XrTbTR47h7kX-sz7zqFcpqIIaudxQUyujKtdkFZYo2nvDtSyFJjfD8BtERHVAckJkvRTyI8hgrNXwv3SxdU/s400/Lorenzo+Corino+Artisan.jpeg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Es wäre das wachsende Interesse der Verbraucher an dieser Art von Produkten wünschenswert, damit die Gesetzgebung auf nationaler und europäischer Ebene “ad hoc” ausgearbeitet werden würde, um die Definition transparent und zum Schutz ernsthafter Produzenten zu machen. Die vorliegende Verwirrung der Begriffe und Definitionen auf dem Markt ist für die Entwicklung der Erzeuger die diesen Weg genommen haben nicht förderlich.</span></div>
<div style="box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 30px; padding: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>*”Biologische Landwirtschaft”: ein ökologische Produktionsmanagement</i></span><i style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">System, das die biologische Vielfalt fördert und verbessert, biologische Zyklen und die biologische Aktivität des Bodens berücksichtig. Es basiert auf dem minimalen Einsatz der Produktionsfaktoren und Management-Praktiken, die Wiederherstellung, Erhaltung und Weiterentwicklung der ökologischen und Harmonie mit der Umwelt zu verbessern.</i></div>
<div style="box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 30px; padding: 0px;">
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-small;"><b>Ubersetzung: <a href="http://www.natur-weine.ch/" target="_blank">Jacqueline Mantovani</a></b></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-607983425175715032016-04-29T18:18:00.001+02:002017-05-11T23:05:11.998+02:00Natural, raw wine heading towards legislation?Wine regulation is extraordinarily old and documentation of it appears in many historical records (Plinius, Columella etc.). Over the past three centuries, various standards have been gradually formed and periodically revised and developed. During the last century, laws aimed at defining, in some detail, wine and everything concerning its origin and production methods began to appear almost everywhere. To this end, highly scientific committees (universities, research centres, private companies) with different areas of expertise were formed, along with, of course, the extraordinary contribution of producers and industry professionals.<br />
The coordination of a lot of work has immediately required the involvement of national and regional authorities in order to structure and consolidate everything and compare it with the outside. Hence the worldwide accredited institution is called <b><a href="http://www.oiv.int/en/">O.I.V.</a></b>. These steps are critical to the credibility and validity of the work already completed and yet to be performed.<br />
The regulations involving wine are so precise, down to the smallest details, that we cannot completely ignore them when addressing the topic of “natural” wine discipline. The appropriate professionalism is required to begin to approach this sector and establish fruitful collaborations with those who have had full knowledge for a long time.<br />
Man, in the course of his history, has always cultivated the vine and wine has always existed. In fact, “natural” wine accompanies the history of human agriculture. This does not mean that the wines were "good". Indeed many of them plenty of defects, including the inability to age. “Farmer's wine”, has excelled often more for its flaws than for its quality and only a few have managed to do well. But it is above all through technical and scientific knowledge that great progress has been made and contributed to the huge success of wine. Unfortunately there are also some who have abused the new opportunities offered by technology and research by “building” products that are not worthy of the wonderful history of wine.<br />
Any regulation must begin with <b><a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2015/12/vines-and-territories.html" target="_blank">how and where the grapes are produced</a></b>. Then detailed analysis of the agronomic side and management of the vineyard must be made, including the most fundamental moment – the harvest decision. It is also crucial that the origin of the grape be fully traceable back to the artisan producer, who must assume responsibility for it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Every bud...a new hope</td></tr>
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Natural, raw wine could, little by little, leave behind this definition, entered into the common language despite having poor or no scientific validation, and assume terms that are more transparent and acceptable on the market.</div>
Today we live a moment governed by the desire to launch news, almost always with little depth, instead of trying to prove the facts. This situation, if in the short term, gives notoriety, can harm in the medium term. We need to build a future for the sector with a solid foundation and great seriousness. It's time to talk solidly and without conflicts of interest of all shapes and species, in particular of a commercial nature, in order to preserve the whole movement and not just a few.<br />
For instance, we should make an important and urgent request for legislative amendment concerning the volatile acidity level, currently defined in far too confined values caused by the use, sometimes massive and not declared, of SO2, a product harmful to our health. Today, many natural wines exceed the level of volatile acidity permitted by current global standards and are therefore illegal. This would represent a major legislative step towards which effort is needed, especially to scientifically demonstrate that volatile acidity is not critical, if correctly balanced within the complexity of the wine. This theme further corroborates the thesis that to produce ’organic-natural’ wines is a very demanding endeavour, nor can it be achieved with any variety, in any environment or under any climatic conditions.<br />
For these reasons, and others, it is crucial to propose rules and disciplines that are not extemporaneous individual initiatives, but backed by serious institutions and underpinned by robust scientific basis.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-26085202773628768022016-04-25T10:34:00.002+02:002017-05-08T19:10:16.676+02:00Il vino “naturale” verso una normativa?<div class="MsoNormal">
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La regolamentazione dei vini è straordinariamente antica e si trova
documentazione in moltissime testimonianze storiche (Plinio, Columella..).
Negli ultimi tre secoli, si sono gradualmente prodotte varie norme che sono
state periodicamente rivisitate ed approfondite. Durante il secolo scorso sono
nate un po’ ovunque delle legislazioni volte a definire in maniera piuttosto
dettagliata il vino e tutto quanto concerne la sua origine e modalità di
produzione. Allo scopo sono stati formati Comitati di alto profilo scientifico
(Università, Centri di ricerca, aziende private) con differenti ambiti di
expertise, oltre ben inteso, il contributo straordinario dei produttori e
professionisti del settore.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiliIuCTXvWkUJDEVKj-WXSA_DDbGpeq-YB2exFhMPmnDft7aIEyxHv51EJeTGUkvdleqdThI-x6DtgZy153up9nvl8BGNxjgsGUL0jeymPI1MJy0_JzvBpBT0TBGgHNNgj6dyyF5KzGb4/s1600/Germoglio.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" id="id_7718_b0ca_824_ce0a" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiliIuCTXvWkUJDEVKj-WXSA_DDbGpeq-YB2exFhMPmnDft7aIEyxHv51EJeTGUkvdleqdThI-x6DtgZy153up9nvl8BGNxjgsGUL0jeymPI1MJy0_JzvBpBT0TBGgHNNgj6dyyF5KzGb4/s640/Germoglio.JPG" style="height: auto; width: 640px;" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ogni germoglio rappresenta una nuova speranza</div>
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Un coordinamento di tanto lavoro si è immediatamente reso necessario con
il coinvolgimento di autorità nazionali, regionali, al fine di strutturare e
consolidare il tutto e confrontarsi all’esterno. Qui l’istituzione mondialmente
accreditata si chiama <b><a href="http://o.i.v./">O.I.V.</a></b>. Questi passaggi sono fondamentali per la
credibilità e la validità del lavoro svolto e ancora in essere.<br />
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Le normative sul vino sono talmente puntuali, fin nei minimi dettagli,
che non ci si può chiamare completamente fuori quando si affronta l’argomento
di disciplina del vino “naturale”. Occorrono le professionalità adeguate per
iniziare ad approcciarsi a tale settore ed instaurare proficue collaborazioni
con chi ne ha piena materia da lungo tempo.</div>
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L’uomo, nel corso della sua storia ha sempre coltivato la vigna e il prodotto vino è sempre esistito. In effetti, il vino “naturale” accompagna la storia agricola dell’umanità. Questo non significa che i vini erano “buoni”, anzi sicuramente molti di essi erano un nutrito programma di difetti, compresa la scarsa longevità. Il “vino del contadino”, molto spesso ha primeggiato di più per i suoi difetti che per le sue qualità e solo pochi sono riusciti a far bene. Ma è soprattutto con la conoscenza tecnico-scientifica che il progresso è stato grandissimo e ha contribuito all’enorme successo del vino. Purtroppo ci sono stati anche alcuni che hanno abusato delle nuove opportunità offerte dalla tecnologia e ricerca “costruendo” prodotti non degni della meravigliosa storia del vino.<div>
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Qualsiasi regolamentazione deve partire <b><a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2015/12/vitigni-e-territori.html" target="_blank">da come e dove si produce l’uva</a></b>.
Quindi deve affrontare in analisi dettagliata il lato agronomico e gestionale
della vigna, compresa la criticità più forte che risiede nella decisione vendemmiale.
Inoltre è basilare che la provenienza dell’uva faccia capo al produttore che ne
assume completamente la responsabilità artigianale.</div>
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Il vino “naturale”, potrebbe, poco a poco, lasciare questa definizione,
entrata nel linguaggio comune, perché scientificamente poco o affatto
sostenibile, per volgere a termini più trasparenti ed accettabili nei confronti
del mercato.</div>
Viviamo oggi un momento governato dalla voglia di lanciare notizie, quasi sempre poco approfondite invece di provare dei fatti. Questa situazione, se nel breve può dare notorietà può far danno nel medio periodo; occorre costruire un futuro con basi solide e grande serietà. E’ giunto il momento di parlare solidamente e scevri da conflitti di interesse di ogni forma e specie, in particolare di natura commerciale al fine di garantire tutto il movimento e non solo alcuni.<br />
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Una importante ed urgente richiesta di modifica legislativa riguarda il tenore in acidità volatile, attualmente definito su valori troppo contenuti a motivo dell’utilizzo, anche massiccio e non dichiarato della solforosa, prodotto nocivo per la nostra salute. Oggi, molti vini naturali superano il livello di acidità volatile ammissibile dalla vigente normativa mondiale, e quindi sono fuorilegge. Questo rappresenta dunque un passaggio legislativo fondamentale verso il quale occorre impegnarsi, soprattutto scientificamente per dimostrare che, la volatile non costituisce una criticità se giustamente equilibrata nella complessità del vino. Inoltre questa tematica avvalora ancora maggiormente la tesi che produrre vini “naturali” è un’impresa professionale molto impegnativa, né si può realizzare con qualsiasi vitigno, in qualsiasi ambiente o in condizioni climatiche non adeguate<br />
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Anche per questi motivi, tra l’altro, è basilare che a proporre norme e disciplinari non siano iniziative estemporanee di singoli, ma serie istituzioni e avvalorate da basi scientifiche robuste.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-64879243048634228882016-04-09T23:06:00.001+02:002017-05-11T23:00:21.095+02:00GOING BEYOND TASTE (Part two) – WINE<i>INTRODUCTION: Historically, food and wine have enjoyed a solid and multifaceted alliance especially in the civilizations of the great rivers (Tigris, Euphrates, Nile), in the Mediterranean basin and beyond. This extraordinary and refined synergy has always been a very precious asset that continues to build success, value and necessary emotions. So it’s only for convenience that the topics of food and wine will be presented here in two separate articles.</i><br />
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Food and wine are a tried and tested combination that sometimes reaches awe-inspiring levels and there is never an end to subsequent discoveries: food ‘imposes’ the choice of wine. But wine can also be enjoyed on its own and these opportunities are sources of energy and emotion.One of the biggest problems we have in producing wine is the difficulty we face in the vineyard. ‘Organic-natural wine’ is above all produced in the vineyard with its healthy and properly matured bunches that are taken to the cellar for the process that leads to “natural wine vinification”: If you have done a good job in the vineyard, this process becomes easierThe real ‘limits’ of conventional wines arise when what is obtained in the vineyard is elaborated in the cellar to make it ‘better’ through the use of substances and means that are also harmful to our health.<br />
A wine made ‘naturally’ in the cellar, perhaps with some defects (colour, volatile, clarity), is surely healthier. In short, we must rewrite and objectify the analytical parameters as brilliantly as the French already have, while we still cause great confusion and continue to compare these two types of wine within the same topic of discussion<br />
I believe, however, that the two economic sectors, conventional wines and wines organically and naturally produced in the cellar, can never be in competition because they travel parallel paths: they are very different wines and thus subject to different tasting rules.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Naturally-produced wine just drawn off</td></tr>
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The consumer, like with food, is moving towards wines made with greater respect for the environment and his health, caring little if they do not match the rules dictated by the “experts”: the first criteria is healthiness.<br />
It's easy to meet people who complain about different upsets caused by wine: excellent meals, delicious foods, sore head... thanks to the wine. But why does this continue to happen? Why is wine ruining, ‘poisoning’, us silently? And nobody does anything?<br />
In developing completely organic and natural wines, one must consider environmental conditions, production and managerial abilities, while facing major economic risks. It is a road of uncertainties, surprises and variability… all factors that do not match the strict rules of entrepreneurship which seek security, risk removal and standardised production. These brief considerations should make it clear that choosing the path of becoming a ‘natural wine’ producer is still a strong, costly and risky decision and commitment to it must be conducted with great professionalism. No clashes, conflicts or judgment: everyone can do better.</div>
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Already wine has its disadvantages due to the alcohol it contains, so why produce significant quantities by resorting to harmful cultivation practices for the surrounding environment? By doing so, the wine is only marketable after various interventions in the cellar, including the use of substances that are harmful to our health.<br />
Sometimes we overdo it with reference to the description of the taste of a wine, “minerality” comes to mind, a terminology frequently used with reference to the minerals found locally (have you ever tried to suck a rock?). It may be helpful to remember how this feature is derived, apart from some specific varieties such as the Riesling, from a biological complexity that is found primarily where the environment is respected, the vines are old and their management committed to preserving the area’s historical and environmental complexity. Many business decisions have instead compromised such situations with massive soil movements, extensive monocultures, forced mechanisation, pesticides and herbicides as well as the uprooting old vines with the loss of varietal gene pools, to build short-lived vineyards condemned by cultivation techniques that are simply too aggressive.<br />
We should not look to the future of wine by projecting the past: let’s also consider empirical knowledge, tacit and unexplained rules, which are embedded in tradition and which science tries to make us understand better: both must be considered.</div>
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<br />P.S. I would like to mention, gratefully, the observers and consumers from Japan who, for over twenty-five years, have given Italian producers the stimulus that wine must return to being a natural protagonist by also going beyond ‘taste’. <br />
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Finally, I would like to express gratitude to<b> <a href="http://www.thatcrazyfrenchwoman.com/">Isabelle Legeron</a></b>, who, after undertaking the maximum qualification as “Master of Wine”, has become totally committed to natural, raw wine, giving great impetus and synergy to the field.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-31158945801438674092016-03-09T10:36:00.002+01:002017-05-09T22:32:28.400+02:00Producing natural, raw wine<div class="MsoNormal">
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Our agriculture is moving further and further away from the choices the entrepreneurs themselves would like to make, because it is influenced by legislation and by the industry that holds the fundamental and strategic resources needed to produce (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Germplasm"><b>germplasms</b></a>, seeds, herbicides, agrochemicals, fertilizers and other means related to production).</div>
Our viticulture is no exception to these rules, but is a ‘wanted’ sector by the industry thanks to its large consumption of pesticides ‘also manufacturers other diseases’ and to the productive capacity forced on the land through aggressive monoculture (hence the increasingly strong need to have access to external input to continue to produce).<br />
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Viticulture is also authorised and encouraged in environments that are unsuitable for vineyards and where it is possible to produce only thanks to the high consumption of agrochemicals. This reflects an important part of the italian industry, but in Europe, the situation isn’t much different.<br />
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We cannot, at least in the short term, substantially change this situation, which gives rise, among other things, to considerable economic gains.</div>
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Yet with foresight and respect for the economic value of the companies, it is possible to create a <a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2014/02/stop-poisoning-vineyards.html"><b>healthier and more “organic”viticulture</b></a> and <b><a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2016/03/a-definition-of-natural-wine.html">naturally obtain in thecellar</a> </b>wines made without the intervention of additives. This choice is very challenging, very professional and not applicable in every single viticultural environment, nor does it guarantee production consistency. It is therefore immediately clear that it is a choice that can only be made by a select few and that inevitably has an important value, which in turn the consumer must be able to recognize.<br />
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Natural wine producers cannot continue to ‘talk in circles’ saying they are better because they might find themselves left high and dry. There are excellent producers of “non-natural” and delicious wines that have shaped the history of italian wine and much more. Those who silently work well and with mastery in the vineyard and in the cellar with added SO2 values that are lower than many products offered by “natural wine” producers.<br />
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In our great viticulture we don’t do our main duty enough. That is to get grapes capable of being transformed into a stable wine. We can’t be content to not produce well in the vineyard and then fix our mistakes with several interventions in the cellar, including some that are harmful to our health, to achieve durability over time of wine.</div>
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For all the reasons mentioned above, it’s always helpful to remember the definition of WINE (EC Regulation 479/2008): “wine is the product obtained exclusively from the total or partial alcoholic fermentation of fresh grapes, crushed or not, or of grape must”. So if we do not move away from the legislation, it makes no sense to go and search other natural wine definitions that provide for additional interventions, even more so when they are harmful to our health.<br />
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It’s worth noting that italian institutional bodies, worldwide economic points of reference in the sector such as Vinitaly, have initiated a contest (Free Wine) to reward wines that contain a maximum total sulfur value of 40mg/lt. It’s curious to observe how other events and associations dedicated to “Natural Wines” yet accept wines with much higher SO2 values.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Data updated February 29, 2016</span></td></tr>
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This further demonstrates that there is still a long way to go and that it’s difficult to supply the consumer with products that really adhere to the definition of the word “WINE” before it’s taken over by some ‘joker’.<br />
And I would like to conclude with a prescription from the Medical School of Salerno: “mens laeta, requies, moderate diaeta” (happy mind, rest, right diet).</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-45158870835342401382016-03-07T12:24:00.004+01:002017-05-11T22:25:41.559+02:00Notes on natural, raw wines: thoughts and considerations (part two), the grape harvestThe grape harvest is called <i>vendemmia</i> in Italian, from the latin word VINDIMIA. No other product on earth uses this name for its harvest. <i>Vendemmia</i> also means prosperity, benefit, profit. Sometimes all you need to do is say the word and a smile appears. If we look over the centuries at how it is represented in literature and paintings or reproduced in art, we must conclude that it’s an event with a certain amount of fascination. The harvest ends a cycle of skill, great work, hopes, holds disappointments and promise. It reveals our inability to fully uncover nature’s complexity and, above all, teaches us patience. Additionally in the production of natural wine, the grape harvest is inexorable. After all, it’s all in the hands of natural processes (yeast, bacteria, biochemical reactions) with the intelligent assistance of the profession.<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC8cJZBU_Fk3ODu_kYVs0ECEGxqlamFZIXkYeHqNatN0H_0X3MVKqnM3qBkXEs4BxVdxByG_UbSZj2uwFiIhejNePcaWldywgFeTzZLRdfCX1s_LA7iIk0Tk1j6r-wqKvKonStKkU68lY/s1600/vigna+vendemmiata.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC8cJZBU_Fk3ODu_kYVs0ECEGxqlamFZIXkYeHqNatN0H_0X3MVKqnM3qBkXEs4BxVdxByG_UbSZj2uwFiIhejNePcaWldywgFeTzZLRdfCX1s_LA7iIk0Tk1j6r-wqKvKonStKkU68lY/s640/vigna+vendemmiata.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harvested Vineyard</td></tr>
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I was really young, maybe 4 or 5 years old, but I remember we often spoke of the grape harvests, especially the difficult, almost desperate ones when rain kept us out of the vineyard. The men went to the grape harvest with heavy canvas bag on their heads and their backs covered (they were the same men who, during a storm, went out armed with a hoe to channel the water and fix any unwanted streams). We harvested silently, patiently waiting for a lull in the rain. Sometimes, you returned home for a quick break in front of the always-burning fireplace… and meanwhile, the fog consumed the grape skins and our hopes. These images are still alive in my head and helped me grow and understand that patience and perseverance are necessities in life. As these situations occurred frequently in the environment, it explains why, the choice of specific territories and the cultivation of certain varieties was so important, including their association with the, albeit limited, space and size of the vineyard... long before other means (specialised mechanisation, more effective pesticides, synthetic fertilisers, irrigation) were available in some places.<br /><br />The grape harvest is a professional activity from which many different results can be obtained. For this, we must prepare the vineyard well for years, a fundamental task to overcome difficult events and, normally, this can only be fully implemented over small surfaces. The moment you implement the harvest is of critical importance. But that’s not enough. You must instruct the harvesters, harvest with them and understand their difficulties, misunderstandings, doubts; but also explain what you want with practical examples and checks. This is the mandatory premise if you’re to talk of organic-natural wines. Do not underestimate these rigorous choices. They involve a certain reduction in yields, do not guarantee regularity of production and quality over the years, and there’s the certainty of some ‘lost’ years. But also the potential for truly amazing vintages.<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The grape Barbera...ready</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lesson in grape harvest</td></tr>
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In my memory, the year 1977 marked a big ‘rift’ between the grape harvest and the gathering of grapes, especially in the case of the White Moscato grape in Piedmont. Climatically, it was a year without sun and with incessant rains, in short, a real setback for the grapes. For me, it was my first opportunity to see how the grape harvest was becoming a task of total ‘collection’; after all, they’d worry about it in the cellar. Then the wine sector divided into three groups: those who dedicated themselves increasingly to a perfect harvesting choice, those who entrusted it to mechanical harvesting and those who went on with manual but almost undifferentiated harvesting.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: start;">Not-to-be-missed colours of the Procanico</span></td></tr>
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The wine world knows the difficulties of the grape harvest and so it is equipped to overcome them (legislation, processing of musts and wines, additives...) because it does not want to take any risk, but achieve consistency and regularity: the high road for more reliable economic forecasts. These are safety nets that <a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2016/03/a-definition-of-natural-wine.html"><b>natural wine</b></a> does not make use of, but not everyone has the ability to bring to the cellar grapes ideal for its production. The peculiarities and difficulties of obtaining grapes able to evolve into natural, raw wine therefore makes it a rare and precious product.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-80682541198551322842016-03-02T16:24:00.002+01:002017-05-11T22:34:59.884+02:00A definition of natural, raw wineGiven that “<a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2015/10/notes-on-natural-wines-thoughts-and_13.html">natural wine</a>” is a commonly used terminology which refers to a category of goods not yet identified by legislature, I think it is worthwhile to elaborate a possible definition in 6 points.<br />
<ul>
<li>The <b>land </b>suitable to produce these wines must contain a clear environmental variability including within the specific vineyard cultivation. A tasting... in the vineyard</li>
<li>The <b>soil </b>used for vineyards must meet the requirement of flora and <a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2013/09/limportanza-della-terra.html" target="_blank">animals biodiversity</a> including a convenient biological quality assessment (SBQ).</li>
<li>The cultivated varieties should correspond to criteria of the area's culture, history and that of <a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2015/12/vines-and-territories.html" target="_blank">local tradition</a>.</li>
<li>The cultivation <b>practices</b> must underpin the principles of organic agriculture* (EU law on bio is not adequate).</li>
<li>The <b>grapes</b> in the cellar must be naturally managed up until wine is produced: producers must absolutely avoid any process, addition, subtraction or anything else that counters the natural process of obtaining and maturing the wines. Clearly this applies to SO2 as well.</li>
<li>The <b>company</b> must remain <a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2014/04/la-bellezza-dellartigianato.html" target="_blank">artisan-sized</a> to allow the entrepreneur to personally follow the stages of production. Indicatively, the threshold should be at less than 50,000 bottles produced.</li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Artisan of wine</td></tr>
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It would be desirable, given the growing consumer interest in these types of products, that legislation on a national and European level be drawn up “ad hoc” to make the definition more transparent and protect serious producers. The present <a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2015/06/words-words-words.html" target="_blank">confusion of terms and definitions</a> is not conducive to the market’s development or useful to the producers who have taken this path.<br />
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*Organic agriculture: an ecological production management system that promotes and enhances biodiversity, biological cycles and the soil’s biological activity. It is based on the minimal use of production factors and management practices that restore, maintain and enhance the ecological and environmental harmony.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-57844632055472234262016-03-01T09:29:00.001+01:002016-03-01T09:33:47.402+01:00味覚を超えて(前半)-食<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">序文</span><span lang="EN-US">:</span><span lang="JA">食とワインは歴史的に見て、特に大河文明(チグリス、ユーフラテス、ナイル)と地中海沿岸を始め多くの地域で互いになくてはならないものであった。他に例を見ないほど洗練された食とワインのもたらす相乗効果はかけがえのないものとなり、経済活動を支え人々の生活に感動を与えてきた。ここでは便宜上、食とワインの話題を2つに分けて考えてみたい。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">数年前</span><span lang="EN-US">,</span><span lang="JA">マサチューセッツ州のウォルサムを訪れた。そこでは食事といえば巨大なハンバーガーやホットドッグ、サンドイッチに同じくラージサイズのドリンクという取り合わせを何度も見た。食事といっても運転中やなにかをしながらで栄養を取るということは後回しで、その日のエネルギーをとるのにしょうがなくしている行為のようだった。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">食料品店も訪れた。店の商品の品揃えは素晴らしい(多くがイタリア産)、レストランの食事もワインも同じく目を見張るものだった。強烈な対比をなす社会を見た気がした。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">反芻動物からネコ科の動物まで相当な数の種を通じて私はいつも食糧確保の変遷に注意を払ってきた。食べるという事は生命に直結しており必要な餌の確保は動物にとって本能的な事である。狼も猪も抑制することが出来満腹を感じる本能がある。反芻動物は草や潅木を早く吸収するために消化はもっともリラックスしている時に行われる。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">これに比べて我々人間は草食動物だけに発達したこの機能になんと不注意</span><span lang="EN-US">/</span><span lang="JA">無関心であるのか?単胃動物であるかのように飼育し、呆れるほどのエネルギーの無駄使いで、環境を破壊しそして深刻な結果(狂牛病いや狂っているのは酪農家の方であろう)をもたらした事は言いまでもないだろう。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">象にはもっと感動した。最近訪れたクルーガーナショナルパークで象は破壊的で巨大な足取りでサバナの中を自分の餌となるモパネやフサフジウツギ、高タンパクのマメ科植物を探していた。そこで私は人間がいかに多くの土地を奪ってきたか、そしてこれからもそれが続けられその場所固有の環境バランスがどんどん壊されていくことを考えた。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieKUeijkork9chVs0pNK6becMAzTVRH2FcagbmOYN8hdp-KElm1PfUSThzRootkJrhuxI-Vy-9fZMxMnk7b07P1OOqG11hUJqqfCraQGYBqunuSK_0EaBJ_o4ofzynRC36cW11s223xkE/s1600/elef.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieKUeijkork9chVs0pNK6becMAzTVRH2FcagbmOYN8hdp-KElm1PfUSThzRootkJrhuxI-Vy-9fZMxMnk7b07P1OOqG11hUJqqfCraQGYBqunuSK_0EaBJ_o4ofzynRC36cW11s223xkE/s640/elef.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span lang="JA">私は人間の進化について考えた。人間の体の基本的な必要性は変わっておらず、進化の過程で過剰なエネルギー摂取も反対に不十分な身体活動も想定されてはこなかった。つまり健康維持は適度な運動にかかっているのだ。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">かいつまんで</span><span lang="EN-US">300</span><span lang="JA">万年前のホモハビリス</span><span lang="EN-US">20</span><span lang="JA">万年前のホモサピエンスの誕生までの間、消化機能にはそれほど大きな変化はなかったもののほかの動物では全く見られないほど大きく脳の進化が進んだ(</span>500<span lang="JA">㎤から</span>1500<span lang="JA">㎤)。もちろんこれは大きさだけではなく機能と複雑性の増加も意味する。他の動物と食物を争奪することでヒトは脳を使い石器を生み出すなど創造活動が初めて可能となった。</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="JA">人類は最初</span>,<span lang="JA">野菜や果物、穀類から栄養を摂っていたがその後魚や肉も摂るようになりその変化に十分対応する間もなく雑食性となってしまった。人間の唾液にはアミラーゼが含まれるがこの炭水化物のでんぷん消化が行われる。一方</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="_GoBack"><span lang="JA">人間の消化機関は野菜の消化はできるが動物性たんぱく質の吸収には限りがあ</span></a><span lang="JA">る中程度の長さしかない。よく知られているように肉食動物は短く単純な消化機関を持ち消化液の</span>pH<span lang="JA">は1近く(人間のそれは</span>pH4<span lang="JA">から</span>5<span lang="JA">)動物性たんぱく質の消化吸収が早い。つまり人間は消化機関の進化に欠けたそこそこの肉食性だと言える。</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="JA">マイケル ポランの雑食動物のジレンマでは人類の食べ物の起源から行きすぎた農業活動のもたらした結果、不健康な食生活への答えとしての自然な食品のニーズの高まりや食事がもたらす病気についてなど興味ふかい考察がなされている。</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="JA">より賢く健康に食べる事は健やかでよりよく生きるため経済的見地から重要な鍵となる。食生活は地域によって様々だが食事が健康へもたらす影響を科学的に証明しようと試みられれてきた。その代表的なものがザ
チャイナスタディーであり食習慣と病気に関する関係を解明しようとしたものである。</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="JA">そこで自然と考えたくなる。なぜ西洋世界で過去数十年の間に味覚が往々にして健康に悪いものを嗜好するようになったのか</span>?<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="JA">なぜ栄養価的</span><span lang="JA">には価値のない行きすぎた</span><span lang="JA">加工食品が我々の食生活に欠かせないものとなったのか?</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="JA">今、食品の味や美味しさ、作物の多様性の重要性に気づきそのパラダイムを変得る時だ。自然の中では単一なものなど存在せず限りなく複雑なのだ。</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="JA">農業投資は土地の生産性向上を主眼としており土壌の健全性は考慮されていない。しかし土壌の健全性こそが作物の品質を決定づける。</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="JA">人間の体もその結果を感じ初めている。体に良くない食品を作り出す事で相当に環境を破壊し自身の健康をも害し初めているのだ。</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="JA">本来の味の多様性を味わい、食品がもたらす恩恵を受ける事で啓蒙につながり食文化を広げる事が出来る。美味しく自然な食品は薬の助けともなり得る。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">古代ギリシャのピタゴラスが言った「食を薬となせ」という言葉を忘れてはなるまい。</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">(Foto)</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPzDYh94Awzn9dcr-3bpoBx9ZLGZK1lQ7QB8mmOdtN5oXovU0Dh95_9udePA2NlPQxqSTQowgZpJ0IrEk69XxFyWUAIHwMjsJeuIA2xdI-Zn3V0mGBdyJ-PE1uLQcIMhd5XVc8CgYjYys/s1600/Fichi+def.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="393" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPzDYh94Awzn9dcr-3bpoBx9ZLGZK1lQ7QB8mmOdtN5oXovU0Dh95_9udePA2NlPQxqSTQowgZpJ0IrEk69XxFyWUAIHwMjsJeuIA2xdI-Zn3V0mGBdyJ-PE1uLQcIMhd5XVc8CgYjYys/s400/Fichi+def.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span lang="JA">パンとイチジク。壁画 エルコラーノ西暦</span><span lang="EN-US">79</span><span lang="JA">年 ナポリ国立考古学博物館蔵</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">このような素晴らしい食に対する考え知るにつけ私たちは先人の教えについて深く理解出来ていない事が分かる。特に西洋社会は食べ過ぎで特に動物たんぱく質を過剰にとりすぎておりこのままでは健康を深刻に害する恐れがある。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">我々はより健康な食生活のためにもっと野菜についての知識を深めるべきだ。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">体に良い食品は健康を増進し体を助ける正しい栄養の知識をもっと身につけるべきだ。ワインに関してもこのような観点から考慮されるべきである。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">ロレンツォコリーノ</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span lang="JA">日本語訳 川村武彦</span><o:p></o:p></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-85646802689543617412016-02-29T11:50:00.000+01:002017-05-07T09:22:10.306+02:00Produrre VINO NATURALELa nostra agricoltura si allontana sempre di più dalle scelte degli imprenditori stessi perché ‘condizionata’ da chi realizza la legislazione e soprattutto detiene le risorse fondamentali e strategiche per l’attività (<a href="http://sito.entecra.it/portale/public/documenti/flyer-convegno-genetica.pdf">germoplasmi</a>, sementi, erbicidi, agro farmaci, fertilizzanti e altri mezzi connessi alla produzione).<br /><br />La nostra viticoltura non sfugge a tali regole ed inoltre è un settore ‘ghiotto’ per l’industria correlata, a motivo dell’ingente consumo di pesticidi che ‘fabbricano anche altre malattie’ e di capacità produttiva dei terreni attraverso una aggressiva monocoltura (da qui la necessità sempre più forte di dover accedere ad inputs esterni per continuare a produrre). La viticoltura è inoltre autorizzata ed incoraggiata anche in ambienti inadeguati al vigneto e dove è possibile produrre solo grazie ad elevati consumi di agrofarmaci. Questo rispecchia una importante parte del quadro italiano, ma anche in Europa la situazione non è molto diversa.<br /><br />Non possiamo, almeno nel breve periodo, modificare sostanzialmente questa situazione, che da origine, tra l’altro, a considerevoli economie.<br /><br />Tuttavia con lungimiranza e con rispetto delle valenze economiche delle aziende, è possibile realizzare delle <a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2014/02/basta-veleni-vigne-le-varieta-di-uve.html"><b>viticolture più sane</b></a> e “organiche” ed <a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2016/02/il-vino-naturale-secondo-lorenzo-corino.html"><b>elaborare naturalmente in cantina</b></a> i vini ottenuti senza l’intervento di additivi. Questa scelta è molto impegnativa, molto professionale e non da possibilità di essere applicata in tutti gli ambienti viticoli, né garantisce la costanza produttiva. Questo fa capire subito che è una scelta che possono fare in pochi e che inevitabilmente ha un valore importante che il consumatore deve poter riconoscere. I produttori di vino naturale non possono continuare a ‘parlarsi addosso’ dicendo che sono migliori perché potrebbero ritrovarsi con il cerino in mano, spento. Ci sono ottimi produttori di vini “non-naturali” buonissimi che hanno fatto la storia del vino italiano e non solo, che in silenzio lavorano bene e con maestrìa sia in vigneto che in cantina e con valori di SO2 aggiunta anche inferiore a proposte di tanti produttori di “vino naturale”.<br /><br />In pratica nella nostra grande viticoltura noi non facciamo abbastanza il nostro dovere principale che è quello di ottenere dell’uva atta ad essere elaborata per un vino stabile: non possiamo pensare di NON produrre bene in campagna per poi delegare a diversi interventi in cantina, tra i quali alcuni nocivi alla salute umana, per conseguire la durabilità nel tempo del vino.<div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Dati: Febbraio 2016<br />
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<br />Per tutti i motivi su indicati è sempre utile ricordare la definizione di VINO (REGOLAMENTO CE 479/2008): “il vino è il prodotto ottenuto esclusivamente dalla fermentazione alcolica totale o parziale di uve fresche, pigiate o no, o di mosti di uve”. Quindi se non ci allontaniamo dalla normativa ci sembra poco opportuno andare alla ricerca di definizioni di vini naturali che prevedano degli interventi aggiuntivi, a maggior ragione quando dannosi per la salute.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Esempio di additivi e pratiche consentite nella produzione del vino </td></tr>
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<br /><br />Vale la pena osservare come organismi istituzionali italiani, mondialmente di riferimento economico di settore come il Vinitaly, abbiano avviato tra l’altro delle iniziative (Free Wine) volte a premiare vini che presentino al massimo valori di solforosa totale di 40 mg/Lt. Ed è curioso osservare come altre manifestazioni o associazioni che si dichiarano dedicate ai “Vini Naturali” accettino vini con valori di SO2 ben superiori.<br /><br />Questo dimostra ulteriormente che rimane ancora tanta strada da percorrere e quanto essa sia difficile, per portare al consumatore dei prodotti veramente aderenti alla definizione della parola “VINO”, prima che non ci venga usurpata da qualche ‘buontempone’.<br /><br />E vorrei concludere con la ricetta della Scuola Medica Salernitana “mens laeta, requies, moderata diaeta” (mente lieta, quiete, dieta giusta).</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-67593318231579360942016-02-23T11:14:00.001+01:002017-05-07T09:45:56.973+02:00Una definizione per il VINO NATURALE <div class="MsoNormal">
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Premesso che “<b><a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2015/09/appunti-sui-vininaturali-riflessioni.html" target="_blank">vinonaturale</a></b>”è
una terminologia in uso comune che si riferisce a una categoria merceologica
non ancora identificata dal legislatore, ritengo valga la pena di approfondirne
una possibile definizione in 6 punti.</div>
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<li>Il territorio potenzialmente atto a dare origine a
questi vini deve contenere una chiara variabilità ambientale a prescindere
dalla specifica coltivazione a vigneto. C'è vita nel vigneto.</li>
<li><span style="text-indent: -36pt;">Il
terreno destinato a vigneto deve rispondere a requisiti di <b><a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2013/09/limportanza-della-terra.html" target="_blank">biodiversità vegetale eanimale</a></b>,
compresi i microrganismi.</span></li>
<li>I vitigni coltivati devono corrispondere a criteri
di <a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2015/12/vitigni-e-territori.html" style="font-weight: bold;" target="_blank">storicità culturale e di tradizione deiluoghi</a>.</li>
<li>Le
pratiche colturali devono sottendere ai principi dell'<a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_farming" style="font-weight: bold;" target="_blank">agricoltura organica</a>* (la <b><a href="http://www.feder.bio/files/787.pdf" target="_blank">legislazione UE</a></b> del bio non è adeguata).</li>
<li><span style="text-indent: -36pt;">L’<b>uva
in cantina</b> deve essere naturalmente gestita fino all’ottenimento dei vini: va
completamente evitato qualsiasi intervento, di aggiunte, sottrazioni o
quant’altro che contrastino il naturale processo di ottenimento ed allevamento
dei vini. Resta chiaro che questa regola comprende anche la SO2. </span></li>
<li>La
<b>dimensione aziendale</b> deve rimanere nell’ambito
dell’<a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2014/04/la-bellezza-dellartigianato.html" target="_blank"><b>artigianato</b></a> per permettere all’imprenditore di seguire personalmente le fasi di produzione.
Indicativamente la soglia potrebbe essere inferiore alle 50.000 bottiglie
prodotte.</li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Artigiano del vino</td></tr>
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Sarebbe auspicabile, vista la crescita di interesse del consumatore verso
questa tipologia di prodotti, al fine di rendere più trasparente il significato
e tutelare i produttori seri, che sia elaborata una legislazione ad hoc di
valenza nazionale ed europea. L’attuale <b><a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2015/06/parole-parole-parole.html" target="_blank">confusione di termini e definizioni</a></b> non
favorisce lo sviluppo del mercato e dei produttori che si impegnano in questa
direzione.</div>
LORENZO CORINO<br />
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* "<i>agricoltura organica</i>": sistema di gestione ecologico della produzione che promuove e valorizza la biodiversità, cicli biologici e l'attività biologica del suolo.<br />
Si basa su un uso minimo di fattori di produzione e pratiche di gestione che ripristinano, mantengono e migliorano l'armonia ecologica e ambientale.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-64114241699628714582016-02-23T11:07:00.001+01:002017-05-11T22:53:25.964+02:00Going beyond taste (Part one) - Food<div style="text-align: center;">
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<i>INTRODUCTION: Historically, food and wine have enjoyed a solid and multifaceted alliance especially in the civilizations of the great rivers (Tigris, Euphrates, Nile), in the Mediterranean basin and beyond. This extraordinary and refined synergy has always been a very precious asset that continues to build success, value and necessary emotions. So it’s only for convenience that the topics of food and wine will be presented here in two separate articles.</i></div>
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I remember some years ago in Waltham Massachusetts to have repeatedly seen meals containing burgers, hot dogs or giant sandwiches accompanied by drinks in steaming vases.<br />
All while continuing to drive a car or be occupied in a thousand other ways: to feed oneself was the last concern, an inconvenience necessary to have enough energy for the day. I remember, however, that I also visited wonderful grocery stores with beautiful products, many of them Italian, as well as “Il Capriccio”, an excellent restaurant both in terms of food and wine.<br />
I’ve always been curious about the evolutionary models of procuring food: from ruminants to felines passing through a large number of species. The act of nutrition finds behavioural explanations that are connected with the viability and therefore the knowledge of useful food is a natural instinct for the animal. Even the wolf, the real one, instinctively possesses a sense of moderation or satiety, and even the wild boar, the real one, limits its offspring and its nutrition. Ruminants represent the need to quickly ingest herbs and shrubs to prepare them for digestion at a quieter time. I cannot recall, at this point, how much we disregard these evolutionary behaviours even in herbivore bovines that we breed as if they were monogastric with an absurd use of energy and with serious environmental consequences, and then we’re surprised by some of the consequences (mad cow or mad breeders?).</div>
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I was even more impressed by the elephant on a recent trip to the Kruger National Park as I observed its devastating and impressive passage in the forest in search of the very plentiful plant food, especially Mopane or the butterfly tree, a high-protein legume. I thought that men have occupied and continue to occupy too much land and there will always be less room for certain environmental balances.</div>
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<span lang="EN-AU"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Elephant feeding on Mopane at the Kruger National Park (South Africa)</span><span style="font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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With the sole intent to stimulate some reflection, I thought also of the evolution of man for whom the most basic needs of the body have not changed and whose evolutionary process does not foresee over-nutrition or insufficient physical exercise: keeping in good health also depends on operating our body in the way it was designed.<br />
With a quick and concise attempt it may be argued that in the evolution from Homo Habilis, 3 million years ago, to Homo Sapiens, 200,000 years ago, digestion has not progressed much, while the brain has undergone an impressive development that has never been realized in other animals (from 500 to 1,500 cm3). Of course it hasn’t only changed in size but in numbers and the complexity of functions. Contending for food with other animals has led us to use our brain to implement the first actions of fabrication (stone tools... the construction of camps). Man had initially as his food source only vegetables, fruits and grains and then also fed on fish and meat, and thus become omnivorous without being fully prepared for it. It must be observed that human saliva contains amylase, which allows for the digestion of carbohydrates, while our digestive tract is of medium length to allow for the digestion of vegetable and limited animal proteins. As we well know, carnivores have a rather short and simple intestinal tract structure to digest animal proteins and fats quickly with a gastric pH of around 1 (in humans, the pH is between 4 and 5). So man is moderately carnivore while lacking a full digestive evolution, the second beating heart, and one that’s just as important as the first.<br />
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Michael Pollan in his <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Omnivore%27s_Dilemma"><b>The Omnivore’s Dilemma</b></a> provides an interesting reflection on the origin of our food, the consequences of aggressive agriculture and the need for more natural food as a response to eating disorders, the cause of many other health disorders. <br />
Eating smarter and healthier is a revolution in the economy of health and wellbeing. Different human societies have followed different diets and some attempts to verify their effects on our health have been scientifically documented, such as in the China Study, which is a serious trial to ponder diet and its consequences on possible human diseases. <br />
And naturally a question arises: why in the western world has taste, in recent decades, acquired a connotation that often goes against our health? Why has an excess of processed foods without nutritional value become a fundamental part of our diet? We must open our minds to the diversity of foods, tastes, crops and overturn the paradigm... <b>in the natural environment nothing is mono</b> but rather infinitely complex.<br />
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Investments in agriculture are mainly aimed at the productive capacity of soils (soil productivity) rather than also being allocated to the health of soils (soil health), which determines the overall quality of production.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: start;">Bread and figs. Wall painting. Herculaneum, 79 AD in the National Archaeological Museum, Naples</span></td></tr>
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The human body too feels the consequences... we are severely damaging the environment and our health by producing the wrong foods. Re-educate, expand the food culture, become used to once more the diversity of real and beneficial flavours: good and natural food (people still associate the terms wholemeal/natural with dietary and therefore punitive) are the greatest allies of medicine. It should be remembered that the Greeks and Pythagoras in particular used the phrase “let food be your medicine”.The rediscovery of these formidable truths finds us still unprepared and ‘ignorant’ of in-depth knowledge about these ancient words. We, especially in the West, guilty of surplus compared to need, and also especially consumers of animal protein, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7rshjAZuzg"><b>which can lead to</b></a>, must draw more from the plant world for our healthy eating.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-82514995725557659952016-02-18T17:23:00.004+01:002017-05-08T19:03:37.828+02:00ANDARE OLTRE IL GUSTO (parte seconda) – Il VINO<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: 11.1pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
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<i>PREMESSA: Il cibo ed il vino, storicamente, hanno costituito un connubio
solidale e poliedrico soprattutto nelle civiltà dei grandi fiumi (Tigri,
Eufrate, Nilo), nel bacino del mediterraneo e non solo. Questa straordinaria e
raffinata sinergia ha sempre costituito una valenza molto preziosa che continua
a costruire successi, economie ed emozioni necessarie. Solo per praticità, gli
argomenti cibo e vino, vengono presentati in due capitoli distinti.</i></div>
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<b><a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2016/02/premessa-il-cibo-edil-vino-storicamente.html" target="_blank">Cibo</a></b> e vino sono un collaudatissimo connubio che talvolta raggiunge
livelli meravigliosi e non c’è mai confine ad altre scoperte: il cibo ‘impone’
la scelta del vino. Ma il vino può esser goduto anche da solo e le occasioni
sono fonte di energie ed emozioni.</div>
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Uno dei problemi più grandi nel quale incorriamo nel produrre vino, è la
difficoltà che abbiamo nella vigna. Il vino ‘naturale’ è soprattutto vigna con
i suoi grappoli sani e giunti correttamente alla maturazione poi in cantina il
processo che porterà al “vino da vinificazione naturale”: se si è lavorato bene
in vigna, tale passaggio diventa più facile.</div>
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I veri ‘limiti’ dei vini convenzionali si trovano proprio quando sono
ottenuti in vigna ed elaborati in cantina per renderli ‘migliori’ attraverso
l’impiego di mezzi e sostanze anche nocive alla nostra salute.</div>
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Un vino ottenuto ‘naturalmente’ in cantina magari con qualche difetto
(colore,volatile, brillantezza).. sarà sicuramente più salubre; insomma occorre
<a href="http://www.lefigaro.fr/flash-eco/2016/02/11/97002-20160211FILWWW00189-l-inao-voudrait-reglementer-les-vins-naturels.php" target="_blank"><b>riscrivere e oggettivare i parametri analitici</b></a> come brillantemente già ci
pensano i francesi mentre noi, ancora, facciamo grandi confusioni e continuiamo
a confrontare queste due tipologie di vini come argomento unico.</div>
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Ritengo, in ogni caso, che le due economie, vini convenzionali e vini
organici e naturalmente ottenuti in cantina, non potranno mai esser
concorrenziali poiché percorrono strade parallele: vini profondamente diversi e
che devono ricevere <b><a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2015/09/appunti-sui-vininaturali-riflessioni.html" target="_blank">regole diverse a partire dalla degustazione</a></b>.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2015/09/appunti-sui-vininaturali-riflessioni.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu6a0vGv8ZYqclaZyBy_2mbJxCmf3iB9JRW8Qs1s98YnzVX7D4OE120cwzcIG1-f2nx7eQ_7yFJBGTDYbGM6gLy2h8QqFluAW2i7rg4fOhGZmpNiYZ2MWUYpmdo5mor1JSncooRzGna4g/s640/Vino+naturalmente+ottenuto+appena+svinato.jpg" width="424" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2015/09/appunti-sui-vininaturali-riflessioni.html" target="_blank">Svinatura</a></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Il consumatore, come per il cibo, si sta orientando verso vini ottenuti
con maggiore rispetto dell’ambiente e della sua salute e poco gli importa se
non corrisponde alle regole dettate dagli “esperti”: la prima regola è la
salubrità.<br />
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È sempre facile incontrare persone che lamentano disturbi differenti a
causa del vino: colazione eccellente, cibi squisiti, mal di testa dirompente… a
motivo del vino. Ma è mai possibile che continui a succedere? Il vino che va a
rovinare,’avvelenare’ silenziosamente? E nessuno si muove?</div>
</div>
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Nell’elaborare compiutamente <b><a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2016/02/il-vino-naturale-secondo-lorenzo-corino.html" target="_blank">vini organici o naturali</a></b>, occorrono delle
premesse ambientali, delle capacità produttive e manageriali speciali anche nel
correre rischi economici importanti. Si tratta di una strada di incertezze,
sorprese, variabilità.. tutti fattori che non corrispondono alle regole forti
dell’imprenditoria che cerca sicurezza, allontana i rischi, standardizza le
produzioni. Queste rapide considerazioni dovrebbero ancora far capire che
scegliere la strada di produttori di vini ‘naturali’ è una operazione forte,
onerosa e rischiosa; e l’impegno va condotto con grande professionalità. Non
scontri, contrapposizioni o sentenze: tutti possono fare meglio.</div>
</div>
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Già di per se il vino ha degli svantaggi per l’alcol che contiene; quindi
perché produrre delle masse importanti col ricorso ad interventi colturali
nocivi per l’ambiente circostante? E successivamente resi idonei al mercato
solo attraverso vari interventi in cantina compreso l’impiego di sostanze
dannose per la salute.</div>
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Talvolta si esagera con riferimento alla descrizione del gusto di un vino
e mi viene a mente “la mineralità”, terminologia di frequente utilizzata, con
riferimento ai minerali del luogo (avete mai provato a succhiare un sasso?).
Può esser utile ricordare come questa caratteristica derivi, a parte alcune
specificità varietali come il Riesling, da complessità biologiche che si
trovano prevalentemente dove gli ambienti sono rispettati, le vigne sono
vecchie e la loro gestione impegnata nella conservazione della complessità
storico-ambientale. Molte scelte imprenditoriali hanno invece compromesso tali
situazioni con importanti movimenti di terreno, monocolture estese,
meccanizzazioni spinte, agro farmaci ed erbicidi; inoltre provvedendo
all’estirpo di vecchi vigneti, con perdita di patrimoni genetici varietali, per
costituire vigneti di breve durata perché condannati da tecniche colturali
troppo aggressive.</div>
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Non si deve guardare al futuro proiettando il passato del vino:
consideriamo anche la conoscenza empirica, regole tacite ed inspiegabili, che
sono incorporate nella tradizione e che la scienza cerca di farci capire
meglio: entrambe da considerare.</div>
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P.S. Vorrei ricordare, riconoscente, gli osservatori e consumatori del
Giappone che da oltre venti anni hanno portato ai produttori italiani gli
stimoli affinché il vino ritornasse protagonista naturale andando anche oltre
al ‘gusto’.</div>
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Inoltre, vorrei esprimere riconoscenza a <b><a href="http://www.thatcrazyfrenchwoman.com/" target="_blank">IsabelleLegeron</a></b>, che dopo aver percorso tutta la
massima preparazione come Master of Wine, è totalmente impegnata per il vino
naturale conferendo grandi impulsi e sinergie al settore.</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-72489311862986035202016-02-11T22:45:00.003+01:002017-05-08T18:54:16.210+02:00ANDARE OLTRE IL GUSTO (parte prima) - IL CIBO <div class="MsoNormal">
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<i>PREMESSA: Il cibo ed il vino, storicamente, hanno costituito un connubio
solidale e poliedrico soprattutto nelle civiltà dei grandi fiumi (Tigri,
Eufrate, Nilo), nel bacino del mediterraneo e non solo. Questa straordinaria e
raffinata sinergia ha sempre costituito una valenza molto preziosa che continua
a costruire successi, economie ed emozioni necessarie. Solo per praticità, gli
argomenti cibo e vino, verranno presentati in due capitoli distinti.</i></div>
</div>
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<i>-----</i></div>
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Ricordo, alcuni anni fa, a Waltham, Massachusetts, di aver assistito
ripetutamente al pasto consumato con hamburger, hot-dog o sandwiches giganti
accompagnati da bevande in vasi fumanti.</div>
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Il tutto mentre si continuava a guidare l’auto o si era occupati in mille
altri modi: nutrirsi era l’ultima preoccupazione, solo un inconveniente
necessario per avere l’energia della giornata. Ricordo, peraltro, di aver
visitato negozi di alimentari stupendi anche per la bellezza dei prodotti,
molti italiani, così come una ristorazione eccellente sia nel cibo che nel
vino: una società che accomunava contrasti forti.</div>
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Sono sempre stato un curioso dei modelli evolutivi per procurarsi il
cibo: dai ruminanti ai felini passando attraverso un consistente numero di
specie. L’atto della nutrizione trova spiegazioni comportamentali che sono
collegate con la capacità di sopravvivenza e quindi la conoscenza del cibo
utile è un istinto innato per l’animale. Anche il lupo, quello vero, possiede
istintivamente il senso della moderazione o sazietà e pure il cinghiale, quello
vero, ha una progenie limitata e anche la sua nutrizione. I ruminanti
rappresentano la necessità di incorporare velocemente erbe ed arbusti per
prepararli alla digestione in un momento più tranquillo. Non posso non
ricordare, a questo punto, quanto noi disattendiamo questi comportamenti
evolutivi anche solo negli erbivori bovidi che alleviamo come fossero dei
monogastrici, con un assurdo impiego di energie, con <b><a href="http://www.italia-film.co/cowspiracy-the-sustainability-secret-2014-subita-streaming/" target="_blank">conseguenze ambientalipesanti</a></b> e giungendo anche a meravigliarci di alcune conseguenze (mucca pazza o
pazzi allevatori?).</div>
</div>
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Mi ha ancora impressionato l’elefante, in un recente viaggio al Kruger
National Park, nel suo devastante ed imponente passaggio nella savana alla
ricerca del cibo vegetale molto abbondante soprattutto di Mopane o albero
farfalla, leguminosa altamente proteica. Ho pensato che gli uomini hanno
occupato e continuano ad occupare troppe terre e che resterà sempre meno spazio
per certi equilibri ambientali.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDw3CKbk0nJx3FS2JawMI_S8BKdNEypMz78oA1rkdOhUHVWwTsz74f97RkNSxmQl5rwOXPR3I06PbvzaTg8apti5CLNJukYx1iXkFauPZ8yq4CLcpCP_tabf9SJGud40XIBc7En8qRois/s1600/elef.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDw3CKbk0nJx3FS2JawMI_S8BKdNEypMz78oA1rkdOhUHVWwTsz74f97RkNSxmQl5rwOXPR3I06PbvzaTg8apti5CLNJukYx1iXkFauPZ8yq4CLcpCP_tabf9SJGud40XIBc7En8qRois/s640/elef.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elefante si nutre di Mopane al Kruger National Park (South Africa)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Con solo intento di stimolare qualche riflessione, pensavo anche all’evoluzione dell’uomo per il quale le più basilari necessità del corpo non si sono modificate ed il suo processo evolutivo non presuppone una ipernutrizione o che si eserciti il fisico in modo insufficiente: mantenersi in buona salute dipende anche dal far funzionare il nostro organismo nel modo in cui è stato progettato.<br />
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Con un tentativo rapido e sintetico si potrebbe asserire che l’evoluzione
da Homo Habilis, 3 milioni di anni a Homo Sapiens 200 mila anni, non abbia
progredito di molto nella funzione digestiva del cibo mentre il cervello ha
subìto uno sviluppo impressionante e mai realizzato in altri animali (da 500 a
1500 cm3). Naturalmente non sono solo variazioni di dimensioni ma di numero e
complessità delle funzioni. Contendere il cibo agli altri animali ha portato ad
usare il cervello che si era fatto grande fino a realizzare le prime azioni di
fabbricazioni (utensili di pietra… costruzione di accampamenti). Quindi l’uomo
con una origine di cibo da legumi, frutta, granaglie si è nutrito anche di
pesce e carne e diventerà onnivoro senza esserne totalmente preparato. Si deve
infatti ricordare che nella saliva dell’uomo vi è l’<b><a href="http://www.cibo360.it/cibo_salute/analisi_sangue/amilasi.htm" target="_blank">amilasi</a></b> che permette la
digestione dei carboidrati ed il tratto digestivo è di lunghezza media per
consentire la digestione di vegetali e anche limitate proteine animali. Come
ben conosciamo, i carnivori hanno invece tratto intestinale corto e struttura
semplice per digerire proteine e grassi animali velocemente con un pH gastrico
attorno ad 1 (nell’uomo pH tra 4 e 5). Quindi l’uomo è moderatamente carnivoro
con mancata evoluzione dell’apparato digerente, il secondo cuore pulsante e
altrettanto fondamentale come il primo.</div>
</div>
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Michael Pollan, nel suo <b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Omnivore%27s_Dilemma" target="_blank">“Il Dilemma dell’Onnivoro”</a></b>, fornisce una interessantissima
riflessione sulla provenienza del nostro cibo, sulle conseguenze di una
agricoltura aggressiva e sulla necessità del cibo più naturale quale risposta
al disordine alimentare foriero di tanti disturbi nella salute delle persone.</div>
Un’alimentazione più intelligente e sana costituisce una rivoluzione
nell’economia della salute e del ben essere. Le diverse società umane hanno
seguito regimi alimentari differenti e alcuni tentativi di verifica delle
conseguenze sulla salute sono scientificamente documentate come ad esempio in
<b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_China_Study" target="_blank">China Study</a></b>, che rappresenta un serio tentativo di ponderare l’alimentazione
con le conseguenze sulle possibili patologie umane.. </div>
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E mi viene spontanea una domanda: come mai nel mondo occidentale negli
ultimi decenni il gusto ha acquisito una connotazione che, spesso, va contro la
nostra salute? E perché l’eccesso di alimenti molto raffinati e privati di
valori alimentari fondamentali per noi? Apriamo le nostre menti alle diversità,
dei cibi, dei gusti, delle coltivazioni: bisogna ribaltare il paradigma…<b> nell’ambiente naturale non c’è niente di mono ma infinite complessità.</b></div>
</div>
Gli investimenti in agricoltura sono prevalentemente rivolti alla capacità produttiva dei suoli (soil productivity) piuttosto che esser destinati anche alla salute dei suoli (soil health) che significa qualità globale delle produzioni.<br />
<br />
Anche il corpo umano ne sente le conseguenze… stiamo danneggiando fortemente l’ambiente e la nostra salute producendo cibi sbagliati. Rieducare, ampliare la cultura alimentare riabituando alla diversità dei sapori veri e benefici: il cibo buono e naturale (può ancora capitare che i termini integrale/naturale siano interpretati come dietetico quindi punitivo) sarà un grande alleato della medicina. Giova ricordare che già i Greci e Pitagora in particolare usavano l’espressione “lascia che il cibo sia la tua medicina”.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu4Sy5xs86welHScJkuqb8uwGI3L762eImX9uPkFznDp383EV9A0mJyk5ROSdCD5NJoAH0mRq2T9AuDMsd_Sk0Uv5peEHGN5Kmx3200MfoffrmKj26u3uksiWpNKP7WDbEumAqTptAm4o/s1600/Fichi+def.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu4Sy5xs86welHScJkuqb8uwGI3L762eImX9uPkFznDp383EV9A0mJyk5ROSdCD5NJoAH0mRq2T9AuDMsd_Sk0Uv5peEHGN5Kmx3200MfoffrmKj26u3uksiWpNKP7WDbEumAqTptAm4o/s320/Fichi+def.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pane e fichi. Pittura parietale. Ercolano, 79 d.C. Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Napoli.</span></td></tr>
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<br />
La riscoperta di queste formidabili verità ci trova ancora impreparati ed
‘ignoranti’ nella conoscenza profonda dei <b><a href="http://www.beniculturali.it/mibac/multimedia/MiBAC/minisiti/alimentazione/sezioni/etastorica/etruria/index.html" target="_blank">significati antichi</a></b>. Siamo,
specialmente noi occidentali, degli eccedentari rispetto al bisogno e
soprattutto troppo consumatori di proteine animali che possono anche portarci a
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7rshjAZuzg" target="_blank"><b>conseguenze negative e gravi</b></a>, mentre
dobbiamo attingere di più al mondo vegetale per la nostra sana alimentazione.<br />
<br />
Il cibo giusto collabora attivamente al nostro benessere e deve esserci più coscienza delle sostanze nutritive a noi favorevoli e anche il <a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2016/02/premessa-il-cibo-ed-il-vinostoricamente.html"><b>vino</b></a> deve ricevere una attenzione diversa e più consapevole.</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-17508835883929316722016-01-14T21:40:00.002+01:002016-01-14T21:44:26.447+01:00ぶどう品種と栽培地域<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">はるか昔から農作物の原産地は必要かつ重要な価値を持ってきた。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">ワインとその元となるぶどうは、間違いなく産地との歴史的なつながりを保ってこられたもので、それがワインとぶどうの農業経済的な価値をより高めてきたのである。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">土地それぞれに根付いた長い歴史を持つぶどう品種はそれぞれの産地独自に生まれた知恵と融合する事で大きな財産となった。農産物と文化の融合が生まれヨーロッパにはこのような場所が多く残っておりまさに生きた見本を示している。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">イタリアはもっとも古いぶどう栽培の歴史を持つ国の一つである。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">同じく原産地という考え方の歴史も古くそれは</span><span lang="EN-US">Vinum
Falernum </span><span lang="JA">にも示されている:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">『ファレルノのワイン通は3つもの品種を識別することができた。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">もっとも高く評価されたのは</span><span lang="EN-US">Faustianum</span><span lang="JA">。中くらいの丘陵で作られ今のファルチャーノ デル マッシコとカザノーバ ディ カリノーラのある丘陵に相当する。高い丘陵ではカザーレ ディ カリノーラのエリアに相当するところで</span><span lang="EN-US">il Caucinum </span><span lang="JA">が作られる。平野でつくられるワインには一般的な名前としてファレルノという呼称が与えられた。』(プリニウス著
博物誌 第</span><span lang="EN-US">14</span><span lang="JA">巻第6章より)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">それ以降の歴史的な変化の中で、領主制や修道院の存在がぶどう品種とその栽培地域を守り育んできた。トカイ(世界最初の原産地呼称)やブルゴーニュ、ボルドーなどを考えるだけでもワイン作りとワイン経済とのお手本のような地域ばかりだ。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">古い歴史を誇るイタリアだがワイン経済については近年発展してきたものだ。その間に程度の差はあれ多くのぶどう品種を使いつつ急激な地方分化が進みワインの原産地呼称が出来上がった。しかし逆説的な側面は明らかに他の地域で歴史を築いてきたような品種、特にフランス原産品種が導入され、栽培があちこちで奨励さえされてきたことである。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">古くから栽培されてきた数多くのイタリア原産種の栽培をするのではなく別の地域のワイン、本来の喜ばれて来た味ではない味、違った文化の信者となることを選んだのだ。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">この事実はとても重要なことだ。イタリア原産ではない品種を栽培することは、経済的な損失だけではなく価値の重大な喪失であることは論を待たない。フランスはフランス原産品種という財産の戦略的かつ絶対的重要性を我々に示してくれる。時をかけて世界の多くの地域で植樹され続け、看過できないほど一般化し画一的な味が市場を席巻した末に消費者はとうとう違う味を求めるようになって来た。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">今まさに機は熟したと感じている。我々のもつ幅広いぶどう品種を見直す時でありその変化に富んだ独自性とポテンシャルを改め評価すべきだ。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">イタリア原産品種こそがイタリアワインに、経済に、そして栽培地域へ本当の力をもたらすことを多くの人が認識し始めている。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="JA">アリアニコ、バルベーラ、カンノナウ、コルビーノ、ガルガーネガ、ランブルスコ、マルバジーア、モンテプルチャーノ、モスカート、ネッビオーロ、ネロダーヴォラ、レフォスコ、サンジョベーゼ、トレッビアーノ、ヴェルメンティーノ、ヴェルメンティーノなどを主要品種と考え、そうでない無数の品種をマイナー品種と考えるのは品種を栽培面積の大きさだけで考慮するからであって、植樹される土地に合うか、そこね根付いた品種かどうかという根源的な価値が全く考慮されていない証拠だ。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<span lang="JA">唯一イタリアだけが誇ることができる無数の文化遺産は地方ごとの偉大な、そしてその地に根付いた歴史の賜物だ。この観点からも私たちは実際に身近にある価値を見直す必要がある。実際、イタリアは世界に誇れるほどの極めて変化に富んだ環境と気候に恵まれている。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">北はぶどうの栽培限界のあるアルプスから南は世界的にみても最も遅く収穫が行われる品種が栽培される南の海岸地帯まであり、その両極の間に様々な地域で丘陵あり、平野あり、そしてアドリア海、イオニア海、ティレニア海などに面した海岸線がある。さらに加えて独自の地形と気候を持った多くの島々もあるのだ。</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUZXE4X88NgVcxWz98d5WV-n703IRKh6fYv7TPOPUV4d6CYGO5k9ABTFmbbbiw20IU1okYf4rjPVZFC6uL-SNSKb-O3QjGvhQCm2XiGPeWfaxY-TEsvdkm9LyHbQ848ao-mIiEkzLmCK8/s1600/Dozio+026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUZXE4X88NgVcxWz98d5WV-n703IRKh6fYv7TPOPUV4d6CYGO5k9ABTFmbbbiw20IU1okYf4rjPVZFC6uL-SNSKb-O3QjGvhQCm2XiGPeWfaxY-TEsvdkm9LyHbQ848ao-mIiEkzLmCK8/s400/Dozio+026.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span lang="JA">このようなイタリアの複雑な自然環境からすれば、ふさわしい場所にそれに適した品種が必ずしも植樹されていないと認めざるを得ないのが実情だ。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">ぶどう品種一つ一つに正常な成熟が必要であり植樹場所が合ったものでなければぶどうの成熟は正常に進まないのだ。 </span></div>
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<span lang="JA">例えば、シャルドネやピノネーロ、ソーヴィニョンなどの早熟種の収穫であったとしても夏の間に収穫が行われるなど気候的に早すぎる。そういった事がおかしいとも思われず全く的外れの情報でさも利点かのように誇張され喧伝されている。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">サンジョベーゼのグループを例にすると、至る所で栽培されてはいるが周知の通り本当に栽培に適した場所とはは丘陵、それも地力の弱い場所だけである。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">こう考えてくると灌漑やその他の設備の設置、そしてとりわけ行き過ぎた農薬散布などの防除作業について考え直さずにはいられない、なぜならば合わない場所に合わない品種が植えられるから本来不必要な設備や処理が必要になるからだ。品種が土地に合わなければ完全なぶどうを収穫する事はできず、その結果収穫後にまでワインを矯正しごまかす必要まで生じるのだ。</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ-Cc5TZ19OUhgPPUHxYRwGTLMcQPF8YINAVvw959wtqconH4hug7ijlsupLAz6i_4NAD4PK4UBfEORE0aphrkRcV-xxD_Vcmg1k91Gnwv5Z2FgVhLp9OynrFy3uiNbMPKhdcHi5iGCyc/s1600/Maliosa+zona+083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ-Cc5TZ19OUhgPPUHxYRwGTLMcQPF8YINAVvw959wtqconH4hug7ijlsupLAz6i_4NAD4PK4UBfEORE0aphrkRcV-xxD_Vcmg1k91Gnwv5Z2FgVhLp9OynrFy3uiNbMPKhdcHi5iGCyc/s400/Maliosa+zona+083.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span lang="JA">遺伝子組み換えの研究にも言及しないわけにはいかない。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">最近の研究から病気をしない生命体などというおめでたい事までも考えられているようだが果たして必要なのだろうか?</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">ブドウもふくむ万物はそのままで完璧であり美しいのだ。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">変える必要など何もないではないか。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">物事をすべて短期的な視点で評価し変えるのではなく長期的な視野のもとに評価して考えなければならないのではないだろうか。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">どれだけ多くの生産者がワインの質が毎年変わる事を気候のせいだと嘆いている事かは知っていても損はないだろう。生産者はまずより慎重であるべきで、自分の土地をより良く理解し、そう遠くはない過去にどれだけ大きな変化を与えてきたかを考え直すべきだ。つまり天候のせいにするではなく根源的にものを考えて畑を作るという事だ。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">この先ワインの歴史は確実に即利益を目指し投機的な投資や資源に対する無思慮などさらにめちゃくちゃな道を進むであろう。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">しかしながら私は次のようにも信じているのである。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">これからより多くの消費者が気づき、本物を求めるようになる事で長期的視野を持った生産者に出会うであろう。そして消費者と生産者が一緒になる事でより強固にこの国独自のワインとぶどう栽培の新たなページが開かれるであろうと。</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">ロレンツォ コリーノ</span></div>
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<span lang="JA">(訳 川村武彦)</span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-23436891358548041992015-12-27T21:11:00.000+01:002017-05-09T21:31:02.672+02:00Vines and Territories<div class="MsoNormal">
Since ancient times, the origin of our agriculture has been a necessary and important value. Wine with its vineyards has perhaps best succeeded in keeping most of its historical ties with the environment in which it's grown, managing to consistently increase its agro-economic values. Several European regions are the living example of this valuable crop and cultural achievement as they able to extract the maximum benefit by combining the historicity of their vines with know-how in the areas of cultivation. Italy has one of the oldest examples of grape growing, and the ‘denomination’ of growing areas such as Vinum Falernum is the most important demonstration of this: ““there is now no wine known that ranks higher than the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falernian_wine"><b><i>Falernian</i></b></a>; it is the only one, too, among all the wines that takes fire on the application of flame. There are three varieties of it—the rough, the sweet, and the thin. Some persons make the following distinctions: the Caucinum, they say, grows on the summit of this range of hills, the Faustianum on the middle slopes, and the Falernum at the foot (Plin., NH, XIV 6).””<br />
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In the following centuries, we witnessed historic changes during which the Lords and the religious orders in particular managed to maintain and strengthen the relationship between grape varieties and their environments: just think of Tokaji (the world’s ‘first’ appellation) or Burgundy and Bordeaux, all fundamental references regarding the knowledge and the economy of wine.<br />
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In Italy, ancient history along with recent developments within the wine economy has helped create, over time, strong regionalisation with a wealth of vineyards and gradual variations that have built the appellations of the origins of wines.<br />
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But the most obvious and somewhat paradoxical aspect is our role in the introduction of vines that have made history in other regions, especially in France, and of which we are encouraged to cultivate almost everywhere. Instead of engaging with the hundreds of grape varieties that were grown locally in ancient times, we have decided to become ‘servants’ of other oenologies, other tastes, other cultures. <br />
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Convinced that this topic is important, I have no doubt in saying that cultivating non Italic vines is a serious loss of values and not just economic ones. A more established and mature France has demonstrated the strategic importance and absolute heritage of “French vines” that have, over time, colonised different world regions, with the not-to-be-forgotten result of a general uniformity of tastes offered on the market, something of which the consumer now wants to free himself. I think it’s time to re-evaluate our ampelographical platform to appreciate its variability, originality and potential. Many have already realised that the Italic vine is the true strength of our wine, our economy and that of our growing areas. Just think about the large populations of Aglianici, Barbera, Cannonau, Corvine, Garganeghe, Lambruschi, Malvasie, Montepulciani, Moscati, Nebbioli, Neri d’Avola, Refoschi, Sangiovesi, Trebbiani and Vermentini and the myriad of varieties that are ‘minor’ only by spread and certainly not for authenticity.<br />
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It’s a cultural heritage that perhaps only Italy can boast of thanks to its important and rooted regional history. It's for this reason that we need to rethink the values that are historically close to us. In fact, Italy expresses an exceptional climatic and environmental variability that does not exist elsewhere in the world. We can go from Alpine places that are at the very limits of vine cultivation to southern and marine areas that allow for the cultivation of the most late producing and complex vines in the world.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRlw2-y4802rdFEMcT4saR2oY6Hwqwy3Uy7q6v3W8nkIkwBDWhhmljFoZGnSqQgnBWTe0dB3AhavCAfD2Uef0bVk7prUyu4yP6kyyL_MsWmXiFF3vEGWip0egMbcmONR9kAY4AHW8d58c/s1600/5+T+05082010+022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRlw2-y4802rdFEMcT4saR2oY6Hwqwy3Uy7q6v3W8nkIkwBDWhhmljFoZGnSqQgnBWTe0dB3AhavCAfD2Uef0bVk7prUyu4yP6kyyL_MsWmXiFF3vEGWip0egMbcmONR9kAY4AHW8d58c/s640/5+T+05082010+022.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vineyards in Cinque Terre (Liguria coast, Italy)</td></tr>
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Between these two extremes are different latitudes, hilly areas, variously flat areas and coastal views of different seas from the Adriatic to the Ionian Sea and the Tyrrhenian Sea, as well unique island environments.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUZXE4X88NgVcxWz98d5WV-n703IRKh6fYv7TPOPUV4d6CYGO5k9ABTFmbbbiw20IU1okYf4rjPVZFC6uL-SNSKb-O3QjGvhQCm2XiGPeWfaxY-TEsvdkm9LyHbQ848ao-mIiEkzLmCK8/s1600/Dozio+026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUZXE4X88NgVcxWz98d5WV-n703IRKh6fYv7TPOPUV4d6CYGO5k9ABTFmbbbiw20IU1okYf4rjPVZFC6uL-SNSKb-O3QjGvhQCm2XiGPeWfaxY-TEsvdkm9LyHbQ848ao-mIiEkzLmCK8/s640/Dozio+026.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picotender (a Nebbiolo variation) vineyards in Arnaz (Aosta Valley, northern Italy)</td></tr>
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And yet despite all of this, the fact remains that part of our viticulture is still out of place. Examples of vines ripening “incorrectly”, excessive precocity coupled with other problems that don't allow for the normal and regular ripeness that each grape variety requires. For example, the harvest of early varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon) that occurs while it is still summer, a fact often boasted about with inopportune communication. And then there are great grape varieties such as the Sangiovesi, which are grown a little everywhere, despite being well known to thrive primarily in hilly and poor environments. These small examples lead us to reflect on the need for challenging agronomic and especially plant pathological interventions precisely focused on the spatial location of inadequate vineyards. Moreover, they make interventions in the cellar necessary in order to correct, amend, supplement that which we have not been able to achieve in the vineyard.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ-Cc5TZ19OUhgPPUHxYRwGTLMcQPF8YINAVvw959wtqconH4hug7ijlsupLAz6i_4NAD4PK4UBfEORE0aphrkRcV-xxD_Vcmg1k91Gnwv5Z2FgVhLp9OynrFy3uiNbMPKhdcHi5iGCyc/s1600/Maliosa+zona+083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ-Cc5TZ19OUhgPPUHxYRwGTLMcQPF8YINAVvw959wtqconH4hug7ijlsupLAz6i_4NAD4PK4UBfEORE0aphrkRcV-xxD_Vcmg1k91Gnwv5Z2FgVhLp9OynrFy3uiNbMPKhdcHi5iGCyc/s400/Maliosa+zona+083.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Procanico grape</td></tr>
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I can’t help but refer to the work of molecular genetics that promises extraordinary results starting with the relationship with pathologies, pushing the naive to think about ‘biologies without disease’. The beauty of Creation, even in the vineyard, must force us to rethink everything we do with the goal of long-term value. Not in the least, we must note how many producers complain of possible climate change by ‘reading’ into the wine. I think it's better to be more cautious and understand how to better interpret the territory and consider what we have done recently to change it, sometimes by a great deal.</div>
I am convinced that our wine history will
continue in its disorderly rush towards immediate profit, investment towards
speculation and not valuing its assets, but I am also convinced that there are
more and more consumers who are looking for authenticity, and the
forward-thinking manufacturers who can meet them will write new pages of
Italian wine and viticulture history with better solidity, originality, and
ultimately, a better future.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-58736038013615111892015-12-16T18:00:00.001+01:002017-05-06T08:37:48.486+02:00Vitigni e Territori<div class="MsoNormal">
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Fin dall’antichità, l’apprezzamento dell’origine dei prodotti agricoli,
ha costituito un valore importante e necessario. Il vino con i suoi vitigni è
certamente quello che ha saputo mantenere di più questi legami storici con gli
ambienti di coltivazione, riuscendo ad incrementare ancora di più queste
valenze agro-economiche. Diverse regioni europee costituiscono l’esempio
vivente di queste preziose realizzazioni colturali e culturali che hanno saputo
trarre il massimo beneficio nel coniugare la storicità dei loro vitigni con il
saper fare nei territori di coltivazione.</div>
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L’Italia costituisce uno degli esempi più antichi di coltivazione
dell’uva e di ‘denominazioni’ di luoghi di coltivazione come ad esempio il nome
<a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falerno" target="_blank">Vinum Falernum</a> ne è la dimostrazione più importante: ““i veri intenditori di
Falerno erano in grado di distinguerne ben tre varietà: la più rinomata era il
Faustianum, prodotto sulla media collina corrispondente agli attuali territori
collinari del comune di Falciano del Massico e Casanova di Carinola; quello di
alta collina, il Caucinum nel territorio corrispondente alla collina di Casale
di Carinola; mentre il vino di pianura aveva l’appellativo generico di Falerno
(Plin., N.H., XIV 6)””.</div>
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Nei secoli successivi si assiste a cambiamenti epocali duranti i quali
soprattutto le signorie e i religiosi riescono a conservare e consolidare la
relazione tra vitigni e ambienti: si ricordano Tokaji (la ‘prima’ denominazione
di territorio), Bourgogne, Bordeaux, quali riferimenti fondamentali per la
conoscenza e l’economia del vino.</div>
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In Italia, storia antica ma sviluppo recente dell’economia del vino, si
assiste nel tempo ad una spiccata regionalizzazione, si utilizza un vasto
patrimonio di vitigni e con varia gradualità, si costituiscono denominazioni
dell’origine dei vini.</div>
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Ma l’aspetto più evidente ed un poco paradossale, è aver assistito
all’introduzione di vitigni che hanno fatto la storia di altri territori,
soprattutto francesi, e dei quali si è incoraggiata la coltivazione un poco
ovunque. Invece di impegnarsi con le centinaia di vitigni anticamente
coltivati, si è preferito diventare ‘servitori’ di altre enologie, di altri
gusti, di altre culture. Nella convinzione che l’argomento sia importante, non
ho dubbi nell’affermare che, coltivare vitigni non italici, sia anche una grave
perdita di valori, non solo economici. La più consolidata e matura Francia ci
dimostra l’importanza strategica ed assoluta del patrimonio “vitigni francesi”
che hanno nel tempo anche colonizzato differenti regioni mondiali, con la non
trascurabile conseguenza di una generalizzata uniformità dei gusti che vengono
proposti sul mercato, e verso i quali il consumatore vorrebbe affrancarsi.</div>
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Ritengo che sia maturato il tempo per rivalutare la nostra piattaforma
ampelografica, apprezzarne la sua variabilità, originalità e potenzialità;
molti hanno già capito che il vitigno italico costituisce la vera forza del
nostro vino, della sua economia e di quella dei suoi territori di coltivazione.
Pensiamo alle grandi popolazioni di Aglianici, Barbera, Cannonau, Corvine,
Garganeghe, Lambruschi, Malvasie, Montepulciani, Moscati, Nebbioli, Neri
d’Avola, Refoschi, Sangiovesi,Trebbiani, Vermentini e la miriade di vitigni
‘minori’ solo per estensione colturale ma non certo per autentica risorsa.</div>
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Un patrimonio culturale che forse solo l’Italia può vantare, grazie alla
sua storia regionale cosi importante e radicata: anche per questo occorre
ripensare ai valori storicamente vicini a noi. Infatti, l’Italia esprime una
variabilità ambientale e climatica eccezionale che nessun altro luogo al mondo
può vantare. Possiamo passare dai luoghi alpini più al limite della possibilità
colturale della vigna, fino alle zone meridionali e marine che consentono la
coltivazione di vitigni tra i più tardivi e complessi al mondo.</div>
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Vigneti nelle Cinque Terre (costa ligure, Italia)</div>
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Tra questi due estremi esistono, sempre a latitudini diverse, ambienti
collinari, areali variamente pianeggianti, costieri con affacci su diversi
mari, dall’Adriatico, allo Jonio, al Tirreno, oltre che originalissime realtà
insulari.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vigneti di Picotender: biotipo di Nebbioli ad Arnaz (AO)</td></tr>
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Con questa situazione, bisogna tuttavia constatare come una parte della
nostra viticoltura sia collocata anche fuori posto. Situazioni con vitigni a
maturazioni “sbagliate”, come l’eccessiva precocità si affiancano ad altre che
non consentono la normale e regolare maturazione che ogni varietà di uva
richiederebbe. Ad esempio, le vendemmie dei vitigni precoci (Chardonnay, Pinot
Nero, Sauvignon), che giungono in periodo ancora estivo e che vengono anche
enfatizzate da una comunicazione inopportuna. E poi grandi vitigni come i
Sangiovesi che sono coltivati un poco ovunque, mentre è ben conosciuta la loro
vocazione collinare e di ambienti poveri come dotazione di terreni. Questi
piccoli esempi ci conducono a riflettere sulla necessità di interventi
agronomici e soprattutto fitoiatrici impegnativi ma proprio a motivo di
collocazione spaziale dei vigneti inadeguata. Inoltre si rendono necessari
degli interventi in cantina al fine di correggere, modificare, integrare,
quanto non siamo stati capaci di conseguire nel vigneto.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grappolo di Procanico: biotipo di Trebbiani</td></tr>
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Non posso non fare accenno al lavoro della genetica molecolare che
promette risultati straordinari a cominciare dal rapporto con le patologie
spingendo qualche sprovveduto a pensare a ‘biologie senza malattie’. La
bellezza del creato, anche nei vitigni, ci deve ricondurre a ripensare ogni
nostra azione nell’opportunità di una sua valorizzazione a lungo termine. Non
da ultimo giova ricordare come non pochi produttori lamentano dei possibili
cambiamenti climatici attraverso la ‘lettura’ nei vini: ritengo sarebbe
opportuno essere più prudenti e saper ancora meglio interpretare il proprio
territorio e considerare quanto abbiamo fatto di recente per modificarlo
talvolta anche tanto.</div>
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Sono convinto che la nostra storia del vino non mancherà di continuare
nella sua disordinata corsa verso un profitto immediato, investimenti verso
speculazioni e non nel valorizzare i patrimoni; ma sono altrettanto convinto
che ci siano le condizioni affinché sempre più consumatori alla ricerca di
autenticità e produttori lungimiranti potranno incontrarsi per scrivere nuove
pagine del vino e della viticoltura italiana con più solidità, originalità e in
ultima analisi, più futuro.</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-36642920440642735952015-10-29T15:34:00.002+01:002015-10-29T15:34:52.681+01:00自然なワインについての忘備録:省察と考察 (後半): 収穫についてプロカニコ 必見の色<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">ブドウの収穫をイタリア語では</span></span><span lang="en-US">vendemmia
(</span><span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">ヴェンデンミア</span></span><span lang="en-US">)</span><span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">と呼ぶ。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">ラテン語の</span></span><span lang="en-US">VINDIMIA</span><span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">に由来しブドウ以外の作物の収穫には使われない特別な言葉だ</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">この言葉には他にも繁栄や恵み、益などの意味合いも含まれ、時にはその言葉だけで笑顔ともなる。</span><span lang="ja-JP">文学や絵画、芸術作品でどれだけこの言葉が使われてきたかを見ると少なからざる魅力を秘めた行事でもあると結論付けざるを得ない。収穫とは</span><span lang="ja-JP">期待と絶望を内に秘めた</span><span lang="ja-JP">希望のサイクル</span><span lang="ja-JP">の終わりである。その秘密の全貌は知る由も無いが辛抱強くあるべき事は教えてくれる。この収穫についてさらに付け加えると、自然なワインを作るにあたってはとても冷酷ということだ:収穫後、作り手の賢明で適切な力添えはあっても全てが自然のプロセス(酵母、バクテリア、生化学反応)に委ねられるからである。</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: 'Arial Unicode MS'; line-height: 18px;">収穫の終わった畑</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">まだ幼い頃の事、</span></span><span lang="en-US">4-6</span><span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">歳頃の事だったっが家でどれだけ収穫の事を話していたか未だによく覚えている。それもとりわけ難しかった年について</span></span><span lang="en-US">,</span><span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">ほとんど絶望的にさえなりながら、収穫時の雨で何一つ出来なかった時の事をどれだけ多く語り合っていた事か。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">男たちは頭に重たい麻袋を乗せ雨合羽を着て収穫に出かけて行った。(土砂降りの時雨水がちゃんと流れるかどうかを確かめに、不十分な場合は水路をつけるため鍬をたずさえて出て行った時に着ていたものと同じだ。)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">収穫はみな押し黙って辛抱強く雨の合間を縫って行われていた。時には一休みのため絶えず薪をくべた暖炉にあたるため家に戻っては来るがそうしているうちに霧がブドウの皮と我々の希望をも打ち破る事もあった。未だに鮮明なこのような記憶は私の成長を助け、人生には我慢強さと根気強さが必要なのだという事を学んだ。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">難しい収穫というのは一定周期であるものだ。</span><span lang="ja-JP">ブドウ畑を作る、つまりどの品種をどの土地で栽培するのかという選択は、限られた土地や畑の規模も含めとても重要な事だ。(農業機械、より効果的な農薬、化学肥料、灌漑などブドウ栽培に適していない土地での)栽培を容易くする方法が導入される前の時代には品種と土地選びはまさに根源的な問題であった。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">収穫は高度な技術を要する作業であり収穫次第でワインの質が大きく変わる。だから何年にもわたって畑を作らなければならないのであり、難しい状況を乗り越えるには畑作りが最も重要な作業であって大規模な畑では良い収穫は出来ない。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">収穫時期を決める事は非常に重要な事だ。でも、さらに大事な事はどのように収穫すべきなのか実際に例を見せて説明し教える事だ。収穫する人と作業を共にし、それぞれが感じる難しさや疑問をまず理解して、年ごとに変わる状況に合わせ、その年に必要な作業を教えなければならない。収穫中にも仕事ぶりを適宜見直す事も必要だ。自然なワインについて話す前に先ずは収穫ありきなのだ。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">厳しく選別しながら収穫する事で当然収量は落ち、量的、質的にも安定しない事はもちろん年によっては収穫出来ない年もある事を忘れてはならない。もちろん本当に素晴らしい年もあるのだが。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">収穫間際のバルベーラ</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">収穫方法を教える</span></span></div>
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<span lang="en-US">1977</span><span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">年は</span>ブドウの
”<span lang="ja-JP">収穫” と “取り入れ”
とにはっきり分かれた年でとりわけピエモンテのモスカートビアンコでその状況が顕著だった。</span><span lang="ja-JP">気候的に日照不足で雨が降り続き全くダメな年だった。私にとってはどのようにブドウの収穫が全量取り入れ作業と化すのかを目の当たりにした初めての年となったが、そのようなブドウでもセラーで加工処理されワインになったのだろう。その後ワイン業界は三つの道に分かれて進む事となる:1つはより厳しい選別の収穫を続ける道。2つ目は機械収穫に頼る道、3つ目はブドウの選別はせずなんでも取り入れる道。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">プロカニコ 必見の色</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">普通のワインの業界であっても収穫の難しさは同じであるが、法律やマストとワインの処理、添加物などを導入する事で問題を乗り越えリスクを回避、安定生産を確保してきた。毎年の安定収入への近道という訳だ。一方</span><span lang="ja-JP">自然なワインづくりではそれは期待すべくもない。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">自然なワインを造るにふさわしいブドウは誰にでも作れるものではない。自然なワインの価値とはそれに値するブドウを収穫出来る事の特殊性と難しさから生まれるものなのだ。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">ロレンツォ</span><span lang="ja-JP">
コリーノ</span></span></div>
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<span lang="en-US">(</span><span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><span lang="ja-JP">訳 川村武彦</span></span>)</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02166111031518974957noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-17326458246681589282015-10-19T12:18:00.000+02:002015-10-20T09:06:23.352+02:00自然なワインについての忘備録:省察と考察 (前半)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">ぶどう栽培とワイン醸造学との間にまだ大きな隔たりがあった</span>70<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">年代終わり頃、”どんなブドウでも持ってきてくれれば、いや、ぶどうが無くてもワインをつくるよ”と言いさえする生産者もいた。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">当時私は研究のためルチャーノ
ウッセーリオ トンマセット教授に師事していたが今もあの頃の事をありありと覚えている。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">トッマセット教授はその当時、醸造化学の紛うかたなき世界的権威であったがブドウ栽培のバランスとブドウの質に関する若者特有の私の情熱を秘めた関心事について賛同してくださっていた。恩師の才気あふれる教えの中で師の作った金言を忘れる事はない。今や広く言われている事だが、師自らが多くの場で語ったものだ</span>:</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">コリーノ君</span>,<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">ワインというものは畑で作るものだ。セラーでは、元気に育ったブドウが持つ本来の力を出来るだけ壊さないようにする事だけ。それ以上によくする事など決して出来ないのだよ
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLj9UPoiSOGXZUcmPLi3V83H9HzrdupKcjSFhpdTdx4x7fB8wvKiUcKmmmyPJCQKWlLI7PXw9hUnD3fNBX5b-de8TlgyXthJvWcMh-hYL3KdK674PQbvgT_I6pawjSu24WsPStHWA54jc/s1600/3+.+cantina+artigianale+di+fine+ottocento+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLj9UPoiSOGXZUcmPLi3V83H9HzrdupKcjSFhpdTdx4x7fB8wvKiUcKmmmyPJCQKWlLI7PXw9hUnD3fNBX5b-de8TlgyXthJvWcMh-hYL3KdK674PQbvgT_I6pawjSu24WsPStHWA54jc/s640/3+.+cantina+artigianale+di+fine+ottocento+%25281%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">教授のこの言葉はワイン生産者である私の家で長らく実践されてきた事であり、ブドウ栽培と栽培に適した産地が再び経済的重要性を回復し、個性ある美味しいワインが生まれるようその後の数年を費やすための大きな励みとなった。それは私の研究において特別な時期となった。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">次のステップとしてフローラや地力の保持などブドウ畑だけではなく、より</span></div>
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”<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">自然”なワイン作りのため、畑に隣接する垣根や木々、鳥の営巣地、畑、牧草地</span><span lang="it-IT">,
</span><span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">森林資源など個別の環境についても研究を進めていった。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">オーストリアやドイツ、スイスなどからも実験的な多くの助言を頂いた。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">同時にイタリアでは、とりわけいくつかの地域において、調和のとれたブドウ栽培とブドウ本来の価値をしっかりと理解し人間の干渉をより少なくした醸造学が発展し始めていた。</span></div>
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“<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">自然な” という言葉は何度も繰り返してきたようにそれに相応しい同意語がなく使われている言葉だ。私はアングロサクソン的な表現である”オーガニックワイン”が一番忠実な表現に思える。オーガニックワインを作るにあたって少なくとも幾つかの重要事項を念頭に置く必要がある:</span></div>
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-<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">その土地由来で古くから栽培されてきたぶどう品種を使い、品種の遺伝変異性が保持されている事。(同じ環境下、同じ品種であってもそれぞれの株独自の個性が残っている事)</span></div>
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-<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">より良いワインとなるようにそれぞれのぶどう品種に最適な環境を選ぶ事</span></div>
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-<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">栽培においてはシンプルな処置で対処しぶどうに対して干渉しすぎないだけでなく、周辺の人々や環境にも負担をかけない方法で処置を行う事。</span></div>
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-<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">ワインの質を大きく左右する事になるぶどうの樹や実が本来もつ生理機能に合った生産バランスを保つ事。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">従ってオーガニックワインもしくは自然なワインは生まれた土地とその生まれ年を非常に強く反映するものであり、ワインになるまでの全ての動き(土壌、気候条件ぶどうの生育過程、醸造方法など)を明確に記録しているものなのだ。セラーでは、繰り返しになるが、醸造、熟成、ボトリングにおいていかなる種類の処理も行われず添加物も使用されてはならない。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">では自然なワインはどのように味わうべきなのだろうか?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMm3VeHC7lWcR7UfkH1M0yfy6xNCRkP06Z2FWQGm2O2JQDesA9CgA18RoSQIQycQLBAbvVXhJy8rDHSPD2tpb1V40PuBdzBs03oVL2hltcwWhz_GmvwADltUiDX_rYPzMwKJk07-2x1KU/s1600/4.+i+colori+del+vino+naturale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMm3VeHC7lWcR7UfkH1M0yfy6xNCRkP06Z2FWQGm2O2JQDesA9CgA18RoSQIQycQLBAbvVXhJy8rDHSPD2tpb1V40PuBdzBs03oVL2hltcwWhz_GmvwADltUiDX_rYPzMwKJk07-2x1KU/s640/4.+i+colori+del+vino+naturale.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">普通のワインの業界は過去数年にわたり組織的に法律をも含め目的に合わせた規則づくりを進めてきた。その甲斐あって、特にセラーでの膨大な数の加工処理が許されるようになった。普通のワインのテイスティングでは注がれたばかりのワインでもすぐに、ほとんど即座にワインの特徴が判断出来てしまう。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">すぐに判断を下し特徴を語るというこのやり方は広く用いられ教えられさえしており一般消費者も教えられた通りに出来る事が求められている。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">一方オーガニックワインは作り方が普通のワインとは多くの点で異なる。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">取分けセラーでは一切加工されていないためワインが生きており変化し続ける。したがって抜栓後ワインを感じるためにはしばらく時間を要し、空気に触れさせながら先入観や固定観念は捨て、どんな香りや味の要素も感じ取れるよう感覚を研ぎ澄まさなければならない。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">その後で、時間を置いたあとで初めてより的確にワインを感じる事が出来るのだ。いずれにせよ自然なワインは変化を続け数日、そして数週間後でも飲む人を驚かせる。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">年によって、また品種によっても酸化や明らかに高い揮発酸、普通のワインと違った飲み慣れない味など
”問題” は起こり得る。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">自然なワインの生産者は研鑽を重ねて美味しいワインが出来るよう努めなければならないのはもちろんだが、年ごとにそれぞれの特徴や変化が生まれ、ある時にはその幅が大きくなり得える事も承知しておかなければなるまい。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">最後に、きちんと作られた自然なワインは普通のワインと違い体に悪いものは間違っても一切入っていない。一方、添加物のおかげで出来ているようないわゆる
”欠点のないワイン” は健康に対する ”攻撃”
である事は知っておいて欲しい。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">素晴らしい食品であるワインは人類の歴史と密接にかかわる長い歴史を持つ。メソポタミアで生まれたぶどうはエジプトで栽培されその後フェニキア人、エトルリア人、ギリシャ人やローマ人に受け継がれた。過去の民族からぶどうとワイン作りの伝統を受け継いできた我々はこの偉大な遺産について今まさに再考すべき時なのだ。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">大きな成果に裏打ちされた(ワイン醸造学の)研究と技術は重要な進歩の礎となった事は確かだが、その成果を産地とはなんら関係のないブドウ品種の導入や土壌や周辺環境の破壊をも伴うブドウ栽培、そして味を操作してつくるようなワインのために応用してはならない。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">自然なワインとは計り知れない経済的な価値を持ち合わせ、それを作る事はも</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">はや義務であり最優先目標でなければならない。そのためには本当に真剣な取り組みが求められる。毎年変わる条件の下、年の状況に応じて培われた知恵と技術を活かして自然なワインをつくるその中に匠人の精華が見て取れるのである。</span></div>
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(<span style="font-family: Arial Unicode MS;">川村武彦 訳</span>)</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02166111031518974957noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-92185444179566775032015-10-13T18:45:00.000+02:002017-05-07T09:36:49.178+02:00Appunti sui VINI NATURALI : riflessioni e considerazioni (parte seconda) _ la vendemmia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
La raccolta dell’uva si chiama vendemmia, dal latino VINDIMIA. Per nessun altro prodotto della terra viene utilizzato lo stesso nome. La vendemmia ha anche il significato di prosperità, beneficio, profitto: talvolta basta pronunciarne il nome ed il sorriso compare. Se poi osserviamo nei secoli quanto è riportato in letteratura, rappresentato nella pittura o riprodotto nell’arte, dobbiamo concludere che effettivamente si tratta di un avvenimento anche un poco ‘magico’. <br />
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La vendemmia conclude un ciclo di speranze, racchiude delusioni e promesse, mostra la nostra incapacità di scoprire completamente i suoi segreti, insegna soprattutto la pazienza. In più, nella produzione di vino naturale, la vendemmia è inesorabile: dopo di essa tutto è nelle mani dei processi naturali (lieviti, batteri, reazioni biochimiche), con l’assistenza intelligente della professione.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> vigna vendemmiata </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Ero proprio piccolo, 4-6 anni, ma ricordo bene quante volte in casa si parlava delle vendemmie e si ricordavano soprattutto quelle difficili, quasi disperate, quando la pioggia negava ogni movimento. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Gli uomini uscivano a vendemmiare con il pesante sacco di canapa sulla testa e riparo della schiena (lo stesso che portavano quando, durante il temporale, andavano muniti di zappa per verificare il percorso dell’acqua e correggere i passaggi non voluti). Si vendemmiava ammutoliti e pazienti per un momento di tregua della pioggia: ogni tanto, si rientrava in casa per una sosta davanti al camino sempre acceso.. e intanto la nebbia consumava la buccia dell’uva e le nostre speranze. Sono immagini ancora vive che mi hanno aiutato a crescere e capire che la pazienza e la tenacia sono una necessità per la vita. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Poiché queste situazioni si verificano con una certa frequenza in relazione agli ambienti, si spiega così, per la vigna, la scelta di territori specifici dove coltivare e quali vitigni, compresa una loro associazione nell’ambito di spazi pur limitati, la dimensione del vigneto… tutto questo prima che diventassero disponibili altri mezzi (meccanizzazione specializzata, agro farmaci più efficaci, fertilizzanti di sintesi, irrigazione).</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">La vendemmia è un’attività professionale dalla quale possono derivare i risultati più diversi; per questo bisogna preparare bene la vigna per anni, un lavoro fondamentale per superare eventi difficili e, normalmente, può essere realizzata al meglio solo su superfici limitate. Il momento in cui si implementa è di un’importanza critica. Ma non basta, occorre istruire i vendemmiatori, vendemmiare con loro e capire le loro difficoltà, incomprensioni, dubbi; ma soprattutto spiegare cosa si vuole con gli esempi pratici e ricontrollare. Questa è la premessa obbligatoria per parlare poi dei vini naturali. Da non sottovalutare che tali rigorose scelte, comportano una sicura riduzione delle rese, una non garanzia di regolarità produttiva e qualitativa negli anni nonché la certezza di qualche annata ‘persa’. Ma anche la potenzialità di annate veramente strepitose.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span></span><span style="text-align: left;">Grappolo di Barbera... pronto</span><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> A lezione di vendemmia</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></div>
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Nei miei ricordi, l’annata 1977, segna una grossa ‘frattura’ tra la
vendemmia e la raccolta dell’uva, soprattutto nel caso del vitigno Moscato
bianco in Piemonte. Climaticamente fu un anno senza sole ed incessanti piogge,
insomma una vera sconfitta per l’uva. Per me fu la prima occasione di
verificare come la vendemmia stava diventando un’operazione di ‘raccolta’
totale, tanto ci avrebbero pensato in cantina. Poi il settore vino proseguì su
tre direzioni: chi si indirizzò sempre più a perfezionare la scelta
vendemmiale, chi si affidò alla raccolta meccanica, chi proseguì una raccolta
quasi indifferenziata.</div>
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Il mondo del vino conosce perfettamente le difficoltà della vendemmia e
pertanto si è attrezzato per superarle (legislazione, lavorazioni su mosti e
vini, additivi..) poiché non vuole correre alcun rischio e conseguire costanza
e regolarità produttiva: la strada maestra per previsioni economiche più
affidabili. Tutele di cui il <a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2016/02/il-vino-naturale-secondo-lorenzo-corino.html" target="_blank"><b>vino naturale</b></a> non si avvale.</div>
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Non è da tutti la capacità di fare entrare in cantina l’uva giusta per la
produzione del vino naturale; le peculiarità e le difficoltà di ottenimento
dell’uva atta ad evolversi nel vino naturale rendono quindi quest’ultimo un
prodotto raro e prezioso.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02166111031518974957noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-15218921417564960882015-10-13T14:11:00.000+02:002017-05-11T22:22:02.155+02:00Notes on natural, raw wines: thoughts and considerations (part one)We were at the end of the ‘70s, a time where there was a huge gap between viticulture and oenology. The motto of some in the industry was even: “bring us grapes of any kind and we will make wine, actually, we don’t even need the grapes”. At the time, I was conducting scientific research with Professor Luciano Usseglio Tomasset and I still remember this period with excitement. Tomasset, a distinguished and world-class oenological chemist, shared my then still-youthful enthusiasm for balanced production and grape quality, and among his clever teachings, I remember that he, on numerous occasions, coined the phrase that would later become widespread: “Dear Dr Corino, wine is made in the vineyard; in the cellar we try to lose the fewest possible values contained in well-grown grapes, and we can improve nothing”.<br />
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It was an exciting time for my scientific research. Encouraged to follow this teaching, which I had already seen applied by my family of wine producers, I devoted most of my following years to the cause that would return viticulture and the territories to an economically important position in the aim of making good and original wines.<br />
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The next step was to commit myself even more, not only in the vineyard (the management of flora and the vitality of the soil), but also in the specific environments adjacent to the vineyards (hedges, trees, birdhouses, fields meadows and wooded areas) in order to achieve a more ‘natural’ situation. Many suggestions were also shared with me by experiments in Austria, Germany and Switzerland, which were all simultaneously growing, particularly in some territories, a more balanced viticulture and more mature wine production. <br />
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The term “natural”, as already stated several times, is a word that is used in the absence of more appropriate synonyms. I would say that the english expression “organic wine” is far more accurate. To produce these wines, we must remember at least some important steps: <br />
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<li>the use of the ancestral vines of the area and the preservation of their genetic variability; </li>
<li>the selection of environments that are very suited to the vines in order to optimise results; </li>
<li>cultivation with simple, few or no invasive interventions, also on the surrounding people and environment; </li>
<li>maintaining an adequate production balance with the physiology of the plant and clusters with high potential for future wine.</li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A vineyard producing natural wines</td></tr>
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Consequently, organic-natural wine is the strongest expression of the area and vintage, which must be explained and documented in order to promptly share the dynamics that occurred up to ‘finished’ wine (soil, weather conditions, physiological synthesis trends in the clusters, wine-making methods etc.). In the cellar, it’s worth remembering that natural wines should not receive any type of treatment nor additives during the winemaking, fermentation, aging and packaging process. <br />
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But how does one taste these wines?<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The colours of natural wine</td></tr>
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The industry of conventional wines has, over the years, become very organised. It has established very targeted regulations that include legislation, with an extraordinary ability to undertake interventions especially in the cellar. Tasting a conventional wine leads to a quick or almost immediate judgment on the features of the just-poured product. This method is widely adopted and taught. Even the end customer has been taught to have such an expectation.<br />
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Natural, raw wines normally have a very different production style from conventional wines and certainly don’t undergo any kind of manipulation in the cellar, but are ‘living’ and constantly evolving. Therefore, as soon as you open the bottle, you must have patience, let it breathe and approach the tasting without any prejudice or prefigured expectation, so as to be better prepared for all expressions of smell and taste as they arise. Only later and with a few pauses are considerations more appropriately made. In any case, these wines normally continue to surprise even at a distance of days and weeks. </div>
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In some years and especially for some varieties, the presence of ‘anomalies’ can still occur: oxidation, values of evident volatile acidity and unconventional tastes. We must remember that the producer of organic wines must always work with skill and diligence to achieve good wines, but has to accept that there can be variability with sometimes surprising results. Finally, it is important to remember that properly achieved organic-natural wines also indisputably healthy. ‘Perfect' wines, but only because the additives make them so are an ‘offense’ to our health and we must be conscious of this. </div>
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Wine, a ‘magic’ product, possesses a long history and is deeply intertwined with human society. From its dawn in Mesopotamia, continuing with the Egyptians, the Phoenicians, the Etruscans, the Greeks and the Romans. From each of these peoples we have been gifted pivotal teachings in viticulture and oenology and we have to remember this precious legacy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTWaG3ipNi7xD5Zj_WKOEjlEbJ_BrU7daeuyPnOG7oXknSYOXoiMiai7EX9af1izmUuSpLya_gR3-WVmw8IldyaVL2DW0nIsqoyEEwDCNNlR8x3qWBgimQWRwn5zo3YW891V8DueMfie4/s1600/2.+Le+complessit%25C3%25A0+nella+vigna+a+primavera.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTWaG3ipNi7xD5Zj_WKOEjlEbJ_BrU7daeuyPnOG7oXknSYOXoiMiai7EX9af1izmUuSpLya_gR3-WVmw8IldyaVL2DW0nIsqoyEEwDCNNlR8x3qWBgimQWRwn5zo3YW891V8DueMfie4/s640/2.+Le+complessit%25C3%25A0+nella+vigna+a+primavera.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Complexity in the vineyard in spring</td></tr>
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Research and technology with their extraordinary results represent important progress but should not lead to applications that have little in common with the values of authenticity, territoriality and the genuine goodness of taste. An organic-natural wine is also a duty and should become a priority because it contains priceless economic values: but it is a hard job that reveals the true artisan.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-31392387954282781532015-09-19T10:26:00.000+02:002017-05-07T09:29:45.000+02:00Appunti sui VINI NATURALI : riflessioni e considerazioni (parte prima)<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
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Eravamo alla fine degli anni ‘70, un periodo di una ampia
distanza tra la viticoltura e l’enologia. Il motto di alcuni operatori era
anche: “portateci dell’uva di qualsiasi tipo e noi vi faremo il vino, anzi,
anche senza uva facciamo il vino”. All’epoca frequentavo per motivi
scientifici il Prof Luciano Usseglio Tomasset e ricordo questi tempi in modo
ancora emozionante. Tomasset, insigne chimico enologico di indiscussa caratura
mondiale, condivideva le mie ancor giovanili attenzioni verso la produzione
equilibrata e qualitativa dell’uva, e tra i suoi arguti insegnamenti, ricordo
che in più di una occasione coniò la frase che divenne in seguito di dominio
collettivo: “Caro Dott. Corino, il vino si fa nella vigna. Noi in cantina
cerchiamo di perdere solo pochi dei valori racchiusi nel grappolo cresciuto
bene. E non possiamo migliorare alcunché”.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxKSvGWk2EMYxyDx-ZxIdC4xgKrEj5ZWI0YoKv0qGVPCmzJ3dKVfRf_FXu0LYsyaSrTqkuMwDsIVVhllehwvZuGAgIqqP0v8m-BCCdaATA69BBw-i-F227xdPExlAssdqkXKkh4aY4_Qk/s1600/3+.+cantina+artigianale+di+fine+ottocento+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxKSvGWk2EMYxyDx-ZxIdC4xgKrEj5ZWI0YoKv0qGVPCmzJ3dKVfRf_FXu0LYsyaSrTqkuMwDsIVVhllehwvZuGAgIqqP0v8m-BCCdaATA69BBw-i-F227xdPExlAssdqkXKkh4aY4_Qk/s640/3+.+cantina+artigianale+di+fine+ottocento+%25281%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Cantina artigianale di fine Ottocento</span></td></tr>
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Fu un momento straordinario per la mia ricerca scientifica: incoraggiato a seguire questo insegnamento che avevo già trovato applicato nella mia famiglia di produttori di vino, dedicai molti dei miei anni successivi alla causa affinché la viticoltura ed i territori potessero risalire ad una posizione economicamente importante nell’obiettivo di vini originali e buoni.<br />
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Il passo successivo fu quello di impegnarmi ancor più non solo nel
vigneto (gestione della flora e della vitalità del terreno..) ma anche sugli
ambienti specifici attigui alle vigne (siepi, alberi, rifugi per uccelli..
campi, prati, masse boschive) al fine di poter conseguire produzioni più
‘naturali’. Molti suggerimenti mi furono anche trasmessi da esperimenti in
Austria, Germania e Svizzera; contemporaneamente crescevano, particolarmente in
alcuni territori, viticolture più equilibrate ed enologie più mature.</div>
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Il termine “naturale”, come più volte già ribadito, è una parola che si
usa in mancanza di sinonimi più appropriati. Vorrei dire che l’espressione
anglosassone di <i>organic wine</i> mi sembra la definizione più aderente.
Per produrre questi vini vanno ricordati almeno alcuni passaggi importanti:</div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->•<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span><!--[endif]-->utilizzo
dei vitigni ancestrali del luogo e conservazione della loro variabilità
genetica;</div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->•<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span><!--[endif]-->selezione
di ambienti molto vocati per i vitigni al fine di ottimizzarne i risultati;</div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->•<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span><!--[endif]-->coltivazione
con interventi semplici, poco o affatto invasivi anche su persone ed ambiente
circostante;</div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->•<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span><!--[endif]-->mantenimento
di equilibri produttivi adeguati alla fisiologia della pianta e grappoli con
alto potenziale per il futuro vino.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVUO7-p7-6J3msF6lWXZW85-FXAuOoD14JmjZ346vANS2BQdFfslS395eRgvYS3L5WbpcYupP-fo9AEOoVXaLmu1AjrlVeNm2M6fDqUXxwipdELfJ8hDQw-T-1nAYKIV_u785zHRz-eXA/s1600/1+.+Vigneto+atto+a+vini+naturali.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVUO7-p7-6J3msF6lWXZW85-FXAuOoD14JmjZ346vANS2BQdFfslS395eRgvYS3L5WbpcYupP-fo9AEOoVXaLmu1AjrlVeNm2M6fDqUXxwipdELfJ8hDQw-T-1nAYKIV_u785zHRz-eXA/s640/1+.+Vigneto+atto+a+vini+naturali.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Vigneto atto a vini naturali</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Ne consegue che il <b><a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2016/02/il-vino-naturale-secondo-lorenzo-corino.html" target="_blank">vino organico o naturale</a></b> costituisce la più forte testimonianza
del luogo e dell’annata che deve essere spiegata e documentata al fine di
raccontare puntualmente tutte le dinamiche occorse fino al conseguimento del
vino ‘finito’ (terreno, condizioni meteo, andamento delle sintesi fisiologiche
nei grappoli, modalità di vinificazione, ecc). In cantina, val la pena ancora
di ricordare, i vini naturali non dovrebbero ricevere nessun tipo di
trattamento né additivi durante il processo di vinificazione, allevamento e
confezionamento.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Ma come degustare questi vini?</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9KOLZk1GrIDNLCrobu7jnmBjWcTN6ep2RQjzEIw3UiEuhs0Q84V2bKSj26gvCTjBhKqiX7zdUoQ1FYNFTP-kJIMFJoTwg-VT9pwJ3m2nvqtMf4FAK_tgTbdM77WGUioe44JKWsezJ8vs/s1600/4.+i+colori+del+vino+naturale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9KOLZk1GrIDNLCrobu7jnmBjWcTN6ep2RQjzEIw3UiEuhs0Q84V2bKSj26gvCTjBhKqiX7zdUoQ1FYNFTP-kJIMFJoTwg-VT9pwJ3m2nvqtMf4FAK_tgTbdM77WGUioe44JKWsezJ8vs/s640/4.+i+colori+del+vino+naturale.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">I colori del vino naturale</span></td></tr>
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Il comparto dei vini convenzionali negli anni si è molto organizzato, ha
istituito dei regolamenti molto mirati, anche legislativi, con una
straordinaria possibilità di <b><a href="http://www.sorgentedelvino.it/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/bottiglie-ingredienti.jpg" target="_blank">interventi ammessi</a></b> soprattutto in cantina. La
degustazione di un vino convenzionale porta a un giudizio rapido o quasi
immediato sulle caratteristiche del prodotto appena versato. Questa modalità è
universalmente adottata ed insegnata; anche il cliente finale è sempre stato
educato ad avere questa aspettativa.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhayljy0MfKxSkPF5UZn-FoW3rCih6Q3_HoA-0yvOvYI9Rlr8_rC08tpLqqW2SoWqi70UTXl95jaeZvVgvbic9X7DiKTDP34k1q1_cZiuP5dIkUtIBtBFZuqFAWr9XxEcymC0fLAadf5mw/s1600/2.+Le+complessit%25C3%25A0+nella+vigna+a+primavera.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhayljy0MfKxSkPF5UZn-FoW3rCih6Q3_HoA-0yvOvYI9Rlr8_rC08tpLqqW2SoWqi70UTXl95jaeZvVgvbic9X7DiKTDP34k1q1_cZiuP5dIkUtIBtBFZuqFAWr9XxEcymC0fLAadf5mw/s640/2.+Le+complessit%25C3%25A0+nella+vigna+a+primavera.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: transparent; font-size: 12.8px;">Viti vecchie, flora indigena, siepi, alberi, gestione manuale</span></span></div>
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Il vino organico o naturale, normalmente avendo una filiera produttiva
molto diversa dal vino convenzionale, e soprattutto non subendo nessun tipo di
manipolazione in cantina, è ‘vivente’ ed in continua evoluzione. Pertanto,
appena si apre una bottiglia occorre avere la pazienza di una certa attesa,
arieggiandolo e, senza nessun preconcetto o canoni prefigurati, esser più
preparati a tutte le espressioni olfattive e gustative che possono presentarsi;
solo in seguito e con qualche pausa sono più appropriate le considerazioni. In
ogni caso tali vini, normalmente, dovrebbero continuare a sorprendere a
distanza anche di giorni e settimane.</div>
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Può comunque succedere che, in alcune annate e soprattutto per alcuni
vitigni, possano sorgere delle ‘anomalie’ diversamente presenti: ossidazione,
valori in acidità volatile evidenti, gusti non convenzionali. Giova ricordare
che il produttore di vini organici deve sempre impegnarsi con perizia e
solerzia per conseguire vini sicuramente buoni, fermo restando che ci potrà
essere una variabilità con delle caratteristiche anche sorprendenti. Infine è
importante ricordare che i vini naturali giustamente conseguiti, contengono
anche delle salubrità incontestabili. Vini ‘perfetti’, ma solo perché gli additivi
lo consentono, sono una ‘offesa’ alla nostra salute e bisogna saperlo.</div>
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Il vino, prodotto ‘magico’, racchiude una storia lunghissima e
profondamente intrecciata con le società umane: dagli albori in Mesopotamia,
continuando con gli Egizi, i Fenici, gli Etruschi, i Greci ed i Romani. Da
ciascuno di questi popoli abbiamo ricevuto degli insegnamenti cardine in
viticoltura ed enologia e dobbiamo ripensare a questo prezioso lascito.</div>
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La ricerca e la tecnologia con i loro straordinari risultati, costituiscono importanti strumenti di progresso ma non devono sfociare in applicazioni che hanno ben poco in comune con i valori di autenticità, territorialità e vera bontà di gusti. Un vino naturale è anche un dovere e deve essere un obiettivo prioritario perché racchiude valori economici inestimabili: ma bisogna impegnarsi non poco, e qui si vede il vero artigiano.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-78231293585505755312015-06-21T17:43:00.005+02:002017-05-07T08:48:39.741+02:00PAROLE, PAROLE, PAROLE…Da un certo tempo sono sorpreso e talvolta anche contrariato nell’ascoltare o leggere in proposito dell’argomento “vino naturale”, soprattutto per la terminologia che viene utilizzata. Vorrei quindi esporre queste mie sensazioni ricordando il significato di alcune delle parole più frequentemente utilizzate.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9_05aRT2MaHhjNzFCmemkpXc95fusvdIy6Dye8ukx5IPkHN41gnAWujXgZlH1jam_ech0UYHiVhkm7bRf6D2udq_2YnTRFrXPxWncBFQQZvljj2_WborEVDDZVQrMWte4DTaA1Yt6O60/s1600/3+le+farfalle+dellla+vigna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9_05aRT2MaHhjNzFCmemkpXc95fusvdIy6Dye8ukx5IPkHN41gnAWujXgZlH1jam_ech0UYHiVhkm7bRf6D2udq_2YnTRFrXPxWncBFQQZvljj2_WborEVDDZVQrMWte4DTaA1Yt6O60/s640/3+le+farfalle+dellla+vigna.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Le farfalle del vigneto: un indice di ambiente naturale</b></td></tr>
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<ul>
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<b>La natura</b>: significa competizione, combattimenti,
pasto... sopravvivenza e sviluppo che si realizza accanto a noi. Il “disturbo
umano”, a diverse intensità e invasività, per il possesso del terreno porta al
dualismo tra coltivazione e ‘infestante’. È un sistema molto dinamico e bene
adattato alle condizioni locali che sconfina nelle riserve genetiche compresi i
rapporti con le malattie (che accompagnano sempre ogni organismo biologico).
Quindi un atteggiamento ‘romantico’ o ‘sognatore’ va pur bene, ma scendere sul
campo e cercare di riflettere meglio sull’ingombro umano mi sembra più
appropriato.</div>
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<b>La chimica<span style="font-family: "times-bold" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times-Bold;">:</span></b> parola spesso usata per indicare qualcosa di
negativo e da rifuggire. Invece val la pena di ricordarsi che la ‘regina’ della
vita è la chimica, la biochimica ecc. regolata dall’informazione genica alla
base dell’ecosistema. Scienze meravigliose ed affascinanti che stiamo
conoscendo sempre di più. L’esempio straordinario delle reazioni biochimiche
che portano ad un acino di uva e poi al vino e.. fino all’aceto ci devono
aiutare a capire le energie che le governano nel destino di forme più stabili.
Se l’uomo, talvolta, si intromette in questi passaggi con un utilizzo improprio
della reazione chimica non è certo a discredito della scienza.</div>
</div>
</div>
</li>
</ul>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWYcQBY62YekzWJMzhcPh3Gk-9zoSK0XqViG8uZNI9QkYxhcKxeEwwwre9d7E0Rwy-wwAoiTOxh8gY7e0pMroAwNDyHa9axrlmAuYPoKOuHXWvFf_CV0xkpe8LJFH6G2CwQjq1WB15pjQ/s1600/2+la+flora+nella+vigna+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWYcQBY62YekzWJMzhcPh3Gk-9zoSK0XqViG8uZNI9QkYxhcKxeEwwwre9d7E0Rwy-wwAoiTOxh8gY7e0pMroAwNDyHa9axrlmAuYPoKOuHXWvFf_CV0xkpe8LJFH6G2CwQjq1WB15pjQ/s400/2+la+flora+nella+vigna+%25281%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Composizione floristica primaverile nella vigna</b></td></tr>
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<b>La biodiversità: </b>parola di moda pronunciata da tutti, in
ogni ambito ed occasione... una parola magica. Mi sembra che ci sia un
risveglio improvviso.. ma dove eravamo prima? Forse non sapevamo che in 1 g di
polvere domestica si posso trovare anche 1000 acari? Che il terreno non è
materiale inerte ma è ricco di abitanti, di reazioni fisiche, chimiche,
microbiologiche che si influenzano a vicenda in cicli complessi? La diversità
biologica è uno status primitivo e variamente dinamico; l’agricoltura lo
modifica mentre è proiettata negli obiettivi di massimo beneficio col minor
dispendio energetico. Ritengo che rimanga da percorrere un lungo cammino per
comprendere meglio il nostro ‘disturbo’ per produrre il cibo; quindi meglio
lavorare d’impegno al fine di fornire risultati utili alla causa e limitare
slogan che non portano da nessuna parte.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><b>L'innesto a gemma in Maggio</b></td></tr>
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La<b> resistenza</b>: non ho mai capito bene verso chi. Innanzi tutto il vino non sa ascoltare e neanche la vigna sa della nostra presenza; siamo, talvolta, superati da enfasi poco giustificate che rischiano di confluire in ambiti diversi dal fare agricoltura. Invece di fare i finti carbonari o leader del nulla, penso sia più produttivo provare a costruire delle rappresentanze credibili per percorrere le vie del confronto istituzionale (in sede locale, regionale, nazionale ed estera) al fine di collaborare efficacemente nella legislazione del settore. Ma per accedere al tavolo del confronto occorre esser uniti, preparati e disponibili al dialogo. Non è questione di trovare un termine più appropriato al <a href="http://lorenzocorino.blogspot.it/2016/02/il-vino-naturale-secondo-lorenzo-corino.html">vino “naturale”</a> ma far capire a tutto il mondo della necessità vitale di cambiare atteggiamento al nostro ‘egoismo’ produttivo e dimostrare come l’alternativa sia economicamente più sostenibile.<br />
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<li>Ed infine vorrei ricordare il vero significato della parola <b>artigianato</b>, dal latino ‘artes’: capacità di agire e produrre in base ad esperienze conoscitive e tecniche, attività economica creativa per servizi non seriali all’interno di un gruppo famigliare o con un numero limitato di collaboratori secondo un ciclo lavorativo, ricorrendo in prevalenza alla manualità. E per la circostanza di una Grecia (e non solo) vessata da circostanze finanziarie internazionali capestro, potrebbe giovare il ricordo della locuzione latina di Orazio ( Epistole, II, 1, 156 ): “Graecia capta ferum victorem cepit et artes intulit agresti Latio” ossia “La Grecia conquistata (dai Romani) catturò il selvaggio vincitore e le arti portò nel Lazio agreste”. Una riflessione contemporanea per essere sempre più artigiani del proprio futuro, ed esser più concreti, preparati ed efficaci.</li>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961147588450609519.post-84021287178973308942015-06-21T17:30:00.000+02:002017-05-09T21:52:32.032+02:00WORDS, WORDS, WORDS…For some time I have been surprised and sometimes disappointed to hear or read about the subject “natural wine”, especially regarding the terminology used. I would therefore like to share my feelings by reminding readers of the significance of some of the most frequently used words.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Butterfies in the vineyard are an indication of preserved environment</td></tr>
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<b>Nature:</b> means competition, fighting, food... survival and development, which takes place next to us. “Human disturbance”, in differing intensity and invasiveness, for the possession of land leads to dualism between cultivation and ‘weed’. It’s a system that’s very dynamic and well adapted to local conditions that encroaches on the gene pools including relations with diseases (which always accompany any biological organism). So a ‘romantic’ or ‘dreamer’ attitude is fine, but coming down to the field and trying to better reflect the human encumbrance would, in my opinion, be more appropriate.<br />
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<b>Chemistry:</b> a word often used to denote anything negative and to be shied away from. Instead it’s worth remembering that the ‘queen’ of life is chemistry, biochemistry etc. regulated by genetic information at the base of the ecosystem: a wonderful and fascinating science that we always learning more about.<br />
The outstanding example of the biochemical reactions that lead to berry grapes and then wine and… finally vinegar should help us understand the energies that govern the fate of more stable forms. If man sometimes intrudes in these steps with the improper use of the chemical reaction, it should not discredit the entire science.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spring flowers in the vineyard</td></tr>
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<b>Biodiversity:</b> a buzzword uttered by everyone, in every area and sometimes... a magic word. It seems to me that there is a sudden awakening... but where we were before? Maybe we didn’t know that one-day of household dust contains 1,000 dust mites? Or that the soil is not inert but full of inhabitants and physical, chemical and microbiological reactions that influence each other in complex cycles? Biological diversity is a primitive and variously dynamic state; agriculture modifies it while its projected goals are maximum benefit with least energy expenditure. I believe we have a long way to go before we better understand our ‘disruption’ to produce food. So, we’re better off working to provide results useful to the cause and limit slogans that don’t lead anywhere.<br /><br /><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mowing by hand between rows</td></tr>
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<b>Resistance:</b> I still don’t know against whom. For starters, wine can’t listen and not even the vine knows of our presence. We are sometimes overcome by hard to justify emphases that risk coming together in areas far apart from agriculture. Instead of making fake Carbonari or leaders of anything, I think it’s more productive to try to build credible representatives to walk the roads of institutional debate (at local, regional, national and foreign levels) in order to collaborate effectively in the legislation regarding the sector. But to be invited to the discussion table, we must be united, prepared and ready for dialogue. It’s not about finding a more appropriate term for “natural” wine, but making it clear to the whole world the vital need to change our ‘selfish’ productive attitude and demonstrate how economically sustainable the alternative is.<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: right;">
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And finally I would like to remind you of the true meaning of the word artisan, from the Latin ‘artes’: able to act and produce on the basis of knowledge and technical experience, creative economic activity for non-serial services in a family or group with a limited number of employees according to the work cycle, resorting mainly to manual means. And with the current situation of a Greece (and beyond) oppressed by an international financial noose, we could all benefit from re-reading the Latin phrase of Horace (Letters, II, 1, 156): “Graecia capta ferum victorem cepit et artes intulit agresti Latio” or “Greece, the captive (of Rome), made her savage victor captive, and brought the arts into rustic Latium”. A contemporary interpretation... to be more artisan in the future and to be more concrete, prepared and effective.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14592491233760706268noreply@blogger.com0